Deoria tal – Tungnath – Chandrashila

It was a long longing trip for me. Somehow it was not materializing for a very long time. Then suddenly, around last December-January, things started falling into place. I got a probable contact from a friend. That contact materialized and most importantly, the team could be built up finally.

Here goes the team: I, Chhetri, Pampa, Tulu, Rana, Sumeli, Sandeep and Sushanta da.

On 14^th April, 2022, I and Tepu took an Air Asia flight and went from Chennai to Kolkata (via Hyderabad, to our utter dismay) so that I could keep her with my parents for my trip duration, as this trip is not suitable for a 4.5 years old kid.

On 15^th April, 2022, Sandeep took an IndiGo flight from Chennai to Delhi and remaining of us took an Air India from Kolkata to Delhi. We landed at T1 of Delhi airport and took airport bus to go to T3 from where our SpiceJet flight will depart for Dehradun next morning. Sandeep had landed at T2 and joined with us at T3.

The flight to Dehradun was of only 55 minutes and we got a smaller plane with 2/2 seats and a lot of engine sound pouring in.

So, on 16^th April, 2022, we are picked up by our driver of a Tempo Traveler to start our journey to Sari village. This vehicle also has been arranged by the agent who organized our trip including stay, food, transport and guides.

We took breakfast at Rishikesh. It was a very hot and dusty day. A big part of Uttarakhand state is undergoing through major construction works. The greenery is painfully missing in many places. Sometimes around early evening, we got a dust storm on our way. It was disturbing enough for us to face in the mountains on the very first day.

Around evening we reached Sari village and checked in the three rooms booked for us. We were really hungry and gulped down some bread omelets.

On 17^th April, 2022, we were out on our first trek to Deorial tal.

The path was paved with stones, but it was steep enough to climb. There were places where I felt giddy and splashed water on face and neck. Being a trained mountaineer, Rana was the most comfortable among us for the trek. Sumeli, didn’t join in the trek.

The trekking distance is around 2.5 km. The trail ends at Deoria tal with Mount Chaukhamba, Trishul, Kedarnath, Madhyamaheshwar opening up in front of you in a series of snow caps.

As we could reach around 10 am, we got the spectacular view intact, because around 11 am onwards, clouds started covering the peaks making the mountains appearing halfway to the actual heights.

From Deoria tal, we took the forest trail towards Jhandi top. After a walk of around 1.5 km, we reached at a clearing at the foot the Jhandi top. Here we decided not to climb further as the view from the top was expected the valley view that we were getting from the clearing itself. Jhandi top is a very steep climb, which made us deciding not to exploit our energy levels at the beginning itself.

No other trekker came to this spot and we spent a lot of time loitering over there. We took our packed lunch here and started climbing down. Being a steep up climb, the coming down was taxing for the knees.

We had noticed some beautiful rose plants in the mountains. It turned out that our guide, Harish, has it in his home. He brought us cuttings of 3 rose plants of different colored flowers. Chhetri made them ready in soil in Chopta and I planted them here in home. Let’s keep fingers crossed for them to grow up here. As if in an exchange, I gave Harish some white Aparajita flower seeds. I’ll feel lucky if they grow over there.

The night also we spent in the same hotel in Sari with a big moon looming over the mountains.

We started our journey from Sari to Chopta on 18^th April, 2022. It was a beautiful journey. After a few turns, Chaukhamba ranges were visible. Our path was laden with blooming rhododendrons. Here it was more in pinks and whites, as contrast to the bright reds we saw during the Deoria tal trek. Locals said the famous burash juice comes from the red variant, and hence more available in Deorial tal area, than in Chopta.

Unfortunately, our first night in Chopta was not comfortable, as we got damp rooms on the lower floor of the property. There was again storm in evening and night was too cold to cope up. I hung my sleeping bag as curtain on the glass window. Last winter’s snow broke the solar geyser of the hotel and asking hot water from kitchen was discouraged by charging INR 50 for per bucket of hot water.

I took a body bath in cold water and it WAS an experience.

That day we spent in total leisure. We stayed in Chopta Blue View hotel, which is at the starting of a meadow.

There are some more hotels around on the same meadow also. Once we cross these hotels and start going down through the meadow, we actually reach in the land of fairy tales.

The meadow starts with its typical wavy slopes leading you into a forest of rhododendrons and very tall and wide trees. The area is kind of dream-come-true zone for anyone familiar with fairy tales. The slope ends at a small stream, only to start again from the other side of the same stream.

It’s marvelously tranquil in this forest. The serenity makes you keeping mum and sit quietly just to admire and appreciate your luck to be able to be there.

This evening we experienced stormy weather again. There was no rain, but a very high wind was blowing our minds away. There was a spectacular sunset along with the wind gashes. We didn’t mind then, as we had our trek on next night, more than 24 hours away.

Next day was perfectly sunny. We went to the Monal point around half a km away and could catch glimpse of a monal sitting on a hilltop beside the road and making us being happy only with its silhouette. In this area, we could see some other birds. Scarlet flinch, whistling thrush, oriental white eye are the few that we could identify, obviously other than the omnipresent great Himalayan crows.

We have seen eagles frequently throughout this trip, soaring high and scaling the valleys with emperorly elegance.

It’s difficult to explain the landscape over here. You have to just walk along to absorb the beauty of needle like gigantic trees, the steep fall of the hill towards the unseen valley from where faint smoke rises indicating existence of unknown villages. You have to walk a bit to see that the hotel boy is walking back to his village after a few days of continuous duty and the village may be some 10 km away. Coolly he takes his hike home with a backpack. You have to stand somewhere to suddenly get sprinkled with dewdrops showering from a bunch of ferns hanging from a boulder above you. You have to walk till the next turn to catch the warmth of sun on you.

We scheduled to start our trek at 2 am that night. We wanted to be at Chandrashila by sunrise.

Our hotel was just at the foot of Tungnath and Chandrashila hill. So when around 3 pm that evening, we saw black clouds looming over Tungnath, our stomach dropped. We all crossed our fingers instinctively. Then started the rain and storm. Tungnath might have been uncoiling his dreadlocks towards every direction. We started making plan B, C, D and all. We had no hope that we could go on as per our schedule.

Around 9 pm, one by one, stars started coming above Tungnath. Somehow the hairdo is done again. Our driver told to start at 3 am. And we were all happily ready for that.

We started from hotel at around 2.45 am and started the trek at sharp 3 am. Santosh was our guide this time.

Yes, it was a moonlit trek. Dreamlike nature was enveloping from every directions. The trail is not too demanding. There are few stretches where the slope is quite steep.

At the beginning we had problem to cope up with the climb. But somewhere at midway to Tungnath, we could adjust our pace and move on. We got sunrise at Tungnath. It was spectacular to see the peaks are getting light one after the other. It’s like a lamp lighter is lighting the street lamps in a medieval city in evening. Only, the light here kept on growing with each passing moment.

The trail to Chandrashila is marked here going behind the Tungnath temple. It’s written the distance to the top is 1 km. Please don’t believe it. This distance stands true only when you think you can climb through the meadow, the broken stone trail that coils the mountain makes you walking nothing less than 2 to 2.5 km.

This trail is a narrow one. It’s a stoned path, but in most of the places it is broken.

Towards Chandrashila

The real beauty and the true danger of this trail is, one side of the path is always open and with rolling meadow. Hence, if you have problem of giddiness, do take care.

One of our team member got migraine attack during this climb. High altitude (12000 ft) makes things worse. He still completed the climb. The serenity and beauty of the place make you pushing your limits. But still, go through the trek articles before going and, do know your limits. I had dry cough. This is also a mild symptom of altitude sickness. I slowed down and kept on sipping water.

All of us got a feeling of abandoning the climb somewhere midway. This is a mild frustration that comes to anyone. But no need to succumb to this feeling as long as you are capable to walk on physically.

We saw few monals before Tungnath and from Chandrashila trail. They were not very near. But they were clear enough to get the idea of their famous plumage. They took flights showing the hidden white on their backs.

Being the topmost point of the surrounding mountains, Chandrashila provides the famous 360° view of the ranges around.

There is a small shrine. There are a lot of stone stupas built by believers to fulfill some or the other wish. And there are you. Sitting and wondering. There is nothing to think over there. Just sit and experience the serenity.

Even the omnipresent over enthusiastic selfie folks present there can’t trespass your personal tranquility. It’s sublime. It’s magnificent.

While climbing down from Chandrashila, some of our team members spotted Himalayan Tahr, I missed.

The down climb was not easy, though faster. Your knees keep on letting you know their existence during climbing down. For me it was almost comfortable from Chandrashila to Tungnath. We stopped at Tungnath for breakfast. After this, the trail became extremely demanding for my knees. I just somehow managed to come down. Others also had issues, but not as severe as mine. My obesity must have played the major role.

We reached hotel before lunch. Next day we would come down to Rishikesh. This morning (on return day to Rishikesh), there was another downpour. Then sun came out from behind the white clouds atop Tungnath. He bid us a smiling good bye.

On this morning, Sushanta da went to monal point and spotted a lot of Himalayan Tahr.

We took the Mandal, Gopeshwar road to Rishikesh. Just after starting the journey from hotel, Chhetri spotted a monal. It was on a boulder on the roadside. Gorgeous.

We were at the end of a turn there. So we took the turn and stopped. Had we stopped near the bird, it would have flew away. Now, from our position, we are directly seeing the bird from around 10 meter distance, perched on the boulder, pacing leisurely and finally taking the flight to the valley, showing its treasure of white back plumage off. I never could imagine its true size from the pictures that I had seen. It’s huge, it’s glittering to the end of explanations.

On our way back, Rana spotted Bhurj tree in the forest. On its bark, ancient humans wrote their scriptures. It’s still sacred in Hinduism.

We saw the trail ends of Rudranath – perhaps, at some future day, we may stride upon them.

This was a cloudy day that made our journey comfortable. We saw Nandprayag, Karnprayag, Rudraprayag and Devprayag on this way. While going, we had seen only Devprayag and Rudraprayag.

The gorges and turns and coils of river Alaknanda can keep anyone engaged. Even the mountains seem flowing with your journey. At every turn, or peak, or hut, or corner, or field, you will feel there is a known face standing there just to have a glimpse of you. The entire environment is so inviting that you start feeling you belong there.

It was 7 pm by when we reached Rishikesh. We were all tired and starving for bath. By the time we finished bath, it was time for Rishikesh to wind up its market. I, Sandeep and Sushanta da went out to Chotiwala for dinner, crossed Ram jhula and had a little shopping. Other team mates finished dinner from a café in front of the hotel and retired for night.

We stayed on the Pauri side of Rishikesh. To get and come out from there, we had to take the road through Rajaji national park. It was actually cherry on the cake.

By next morning, my ankle swelled nicely and after breakfast, I headed for an ayurvedic massage in a clinic. It helped a lot. Then I and Sandeep purchased a few rudraksh mala and some crystals pedants. Chhetri and Tulu went to Ganga and played over there. Rana and Sumeli went out for simple strolling. Our great Sushnata da went up to Neelkanth Mahadev temple by auto and came down all 12 km by walk. No wonder, he was competing with me in limping throughout the rest of the journey.

He met on of his old acquaintance in Rishikesh who left home and became a sadhu. Globe is round.

This was our day to fly back to Delhi. We took an evening flight. Again terminal hopping in Delhi airport and next morning flight to Kolkata. Sandeep’s Chennai flight got delayed for 14 hours, so he could happily spend his day with one of the old friends in Saket.

It was in Delhi, and it was Chhetri’s enthusiasm, that we enjoyed a typical Delhi dhaba dinner on this night. Two big pots of chicken curry, satisfying our forced vegetarianism (eggs are exceptions) during the treks. Then 400 ml per head chhach packets quenching us. He shown he didn’t waste his two years in IIT Delhi doing M-Tech.

Bolpur.. A place to relax and unleash…

Our group – Me, Tepu, Maa,
Baba, Shankar Da, Sandeep, Bidyut Da

Almost all Bengalis love to speak about Shantiniketan. They practically love to visit the place again and again too. This Tagore’s den is in Bolpur, a town in the district of Birbhum in the Indian state of West Bengal. Shantiniketan has its own charm. But here we’ll talk about the district in its own rights.

Bolpur is around two and half hours journey from Kolkata by express trains. And there are plenty of them. Local and passenger trains also ply between Kolkata and Bolpur. This time we took Kanchanjangha express. It starts from Sealdah and stops for a minute at Dakshineshwar. We boarded from here. It’s a morning train and reaches Bolpur by 9.30 am. Our stay was at Sabuj Soumi Dwip. It’s a sprawling farm with five cottages for guests. Food here is simple but delicious. 

We decided to skip Shantiniketan this time and tour around the other places. This entire district is compulsively rustic and beautiful. So as many days the stay may last, something or the other keeps on coming to experience. I had no wish to lose any opportunity. After finishing breakfast at Bolpur station railway canteen, Jan Aahaar, we hired two battery vehicles, toto, and divided our group into two for different routes. One toto went to the resort and the other one directly to Amar Kutir.

Needless to say I headed to Amar Kutir. Amar Kutir is again a place to experience. Sushen Mukherjee started it as a refuge for the freedom fighters. Slowly it evolved and now it’s a society for local rural development. They produce several items through different arts and crafts forms. They have their own workshops. The batik workshop is in the compound itself and the leather workshop is at a stone throw distance in the premises of their restaurant. This organization aims for local employment and business through local produce. Compare to outside market their prices are bit high, but knowing that the money goes to local communities, it’s worth spending. They have dokra items, leather bags, leather chappals, handmade paper stationery items, sarees – readymade dresses – dress materials – in batik as well as hand broidered silk and cotton fabrics, and there are lot of other knick-knacks to choose from. The shop has its own rustic appearance which is appealing. The approach road to this place is through forest. This itself is a big charm that you are going shopping through forest. The premises has a small museum, opportunity to listen to baul songs and a good enough big open space for unwinding.

Amar Kutir is a must recommendation to visit. But it must not be confused to be anything related to Tagore. It’s a separate effort and a much more community welfare oriented effort. Post noon we’re back our resort in the village of Amdahara which is near Kankalitala and around 22 km from Amar Kutir. The nearest station is Prantik, but many trains don’t stop there. Hence Bolpur is the easier option.

The temple is small one. The intriguing matter is till date animal sacrifice is practiced here and the sacrifice stand – the harikath – and its adjacent floor are smeared with blood stains.

Our next stop is at wood fossil park in the village of Amkhoi. Recently the forest department has found out wood fossil from here while digging a pond there.

Fossil Park

The fossils are of around 20 million years old. It’s yet to be determined which trees are these. Chances are there those trees went extinct long ago. There are several fossils kept and scattered in the park. There is no ticket at present but a museum and pond with an island are being planned. Once up as a tourist destination, tickets also will come. Present serenity will be compromised also, at least to some extent. Along with the fossils, the forest department has developed a medicinal plants garden in the park. These are the local plants that tribal people use even today for their ailments and good health. Where modern medicine is almost a far cry, these herbs keep them agile – and it seems a better option too. The guide over there is from local tribe. He is capable enough to show and explain the fossils and the herbs. He also shows some very interesting display items. There are some pieces of fossil, that look like a broken cavity. The inner surface of the cavity has some color. The guide explains that these are mineral colors that form color pockets inside the fossils during petrifaction. He also shows a whole piece which looks like a stone. While shaking it produces a sound that indicates small particles are there inside it. This is a fossil part carrying color beads. Which color it might be can be found only after breaking it open. For obvious reasons, not a single pebble is allowed to take away from the premises. There is a small tea shop nearby, part of the park. It has typical clay stove and clay plaster on its walls. On that some tribal paintings are done. The colors are all from the fossil colors obtained while excavating the park. They are beautiful naturally. If the guide cum guard friendly with the visitor, he offers something.

Colors!!

He has a small collection of fossil colors. He displays their versatility by drawing some line on the visitor’s hand. There are around ten different colors that he showed on the day we visited. All are in powder form. They have a soothing finish once applied.

We gathered a small bottle of mahua oil here. This oil is used extensively among tribal people for various purposes. The person making tea in the shop ran on a cycle to someone’s house to bring this. It has a pungent smell and we are yet to try it. Over and out of the forest. Now we are heading to a village to search a plot that a family friend has purchased. Internet is a feeble entity here and there is no route guide. So during our long haul of spotting the spot, we actually went through the internal villages. The calm and slow village life unfolded itself through our quest. Finally we could locate the plot and relished the eureka moment.

It was getting late for lunch that is ready  in the resort. But it was really difficult to avoid totally the street on Viswa Bharati road which decks itself up with a long row of handicrafts shops. To manage time, here again we split into groups and browsed through some shops as per individual interest. This street can provide a leisure walk in evening with more window shopping and some actual shopping. But natural appeal is not present here.

It was bad that we reached resort for lunch by 4 pm. We were seriously hungry. This afternoon was again spent in relaxation. Comes next day and we have the return Kanchanjangha express from Bolpur in evening. Early morning was spent in the farm. A cyclone was approaching, so the day was cloudy and the morning was not ending. The farm has some over yielding orange and lemon trees. The specialty of this orange is its sourness. It’s deadly. Nobody can eat them directly. We collected a lot to distribute among people back home asking them to suggest how best this can be utilized. Sometimes before breakfast we visited an upcoming poultry farm just across the road from the resort. Again some open space, an endless road and a lot of greenery around.

Post lunch again a group division. A car went directly to Bolpur station and a toto to Sonajhurir Haat. Again, I am in the toto.

The Haat!!

This haat has several names, like Shonibarer Haat (Saturday flea market), Khoai Boner Haat (flea market of laterite forest) etc. The original moto behind this market was to exhibit and sale produces from local artisans. It used to be held only on Saturday afternoon – post lunch to daylight time. Presently it comes every day, but maximum rush still comes on Saturdays. Previously anybody makes anything used to come here weekly to sell the produce. As more tourists are coming, so this place became more commercialized. Now there are vendors who outsource the products from several places and bring them here. But still even now also, there are vendors who come here to sell their own crafts. The visitor must be able to judge what they want and go for shopping here. Generally the prices go high on Saturdays. On other days it’s reasonably cheaper. The main draw of this market is all the items are having a typical artistic rural Bengal look, which is appealing. The surrounding provides a great backdrop with lot of trees around, the red soil to walk on and the slow setting sun. Sun sets and the market ends for the day. It’s good to be there. Something or the other definitely will catch the eyes and something or the other will definitely bring somebody’s memory and you’ll purchase something or the other for somebody somewhere. The entire atmosphere beams with sensations. And there are also some bauls singing somewhere in the market, or some tribal groups dancing with the drum called madal. It’s beautiful altogether.

Boul Singer

From Sonajhuri (it’s a tree name which yields yellow flowers) the same toto took us to Bolpur station. 

The express was late and we waited patiently as rush does not seem matching with this place. By late evening we were in home.

We traveled there with three elderly persons and our terrible two years old daughter, Tumbi. This place suits all. Tumbi never stopped either running in the open, or mimicking the flee of cattle egrets that come to the farm’s freshly ploughed land, or falling on the murram, or running behind the butterflies, or simply loitering about. 

This is a place to relax and unleash.

Pench – The Mowgli land!

Pench – the Mowgli land – the land of tigers – land of forests. District Seoni of Madhya Pradesh and portion of Maharashtra make the Pench forest. River Pench flows through the forest, from this river the forest gets its name.

We took Delhi bound Tamil Nadu express from Chennai Central at 10 pm on 20/11/2018, Tuesday. We are heading to Nagpur, a 16 hours journey. From Nagpur to Pench is a 90 km road journey that we covered by car.

We booked a budget scale resort in Penach called Banyan Tree Camp. The owner is a Bong from Serampore, Suman Manna, who had fallen in love with forests at a very young age. He speaks Bangla, but married in MP and settled there itself.

What came noticeable for me just after coming out of Nagpur station is the array of shops selling agricultural items. Seeds, pesticides, tools – what not! Evident that the area is majorly agriculture oriented.

Fields start from just the periphery of Nagpur city, and then, after a little while start the forest of Pench. But the road is a highway, hence forest does not come very near.

Madhya Pradesh starts at Khawasa. From here only, a small road goes leftward leading to our resort. It’s about 10 km away. This entire road is through forest. The night safari gate also falls on this road. Exit of night safari is from back of our resort. Evening 6 pm to 8.30 pm is timing for night safari. This we didn’t opt.

The main attraction of Banyan Tree Camp is its no-frill-attitude. There are four rooms altogether. Two pairs separated with open land in between. There is a big banyan tree, from which the resort derived its name. Tyre made, wooden swings, ladders etc are kept below the tree. The recreation options. A lot of open space is there inside the premises. Each room has a front and rear verandah. The rear verandah provides a view of the village and forest scenes at the back of the property where cattle graze and brass bells on their neck keep on tingling. I thought of bringing such a bell home. But we couldn’t visit the village weekly market where it comes.

The first two days of our stay Suman was not present in the resort. A few boys were managing everything and they managed it fantastic. They cook very tasty food, though bit spicy, but not hot. There was a local mango pickle – too good. This I brought a kilo, 130 bucks – nothing.

We reached around evening. They immediately brought water and wet towels for refreshment. It started becoming cold. The kids started running all around, no fear, no hesitation – just run and run.

We took four safaris  in next two days – morning and evening. The first day’s two were from Turia gate in Madhya Pradesh and the last two from Khudsapar gate in Maharashtra.

We had to start by 5.15 am for morning safari, so we went to bed early.

It became 5.18 am by the time we could finally come out for Turia gate morning safari. Open Gypsy, fantastic cold, as the car ran, breeze became stronger on us. Both sets of parents held the kids in between them to keep them warm. This arrangement had to be changed a bit to give space to the guide after entering the forest.

The forest through Turia is very beautiful. It’s not same all the ways. Somewhere it’s dense, somewhere there are open lands. The forest on the banks of River Pench is wide and spread. I felt it very romantic. At each corner the forest changes its appearance.

Here we could see spotted deer, sambar, wild owl, jackal, eagle, two tailed black bird, peacock etc.

Baby sambar came very near to the road with its curious big eyes wide open. Adult sambar also came like this.

Monkeys are troubled with their tails. They love to spread it across the road. Whenever vehicle comes, that first thing they sort out is to coil up their possession and ran sideward.

The peacocks had shed their monsoon tails and new small tails are appearing now. Similar for deer. They are getting new velvety horns now.

Curiously beautiful is this River Pench. A shallow water flows during this early winters. A very weak current. No hurry for anything. Laying as a quaint spread. There is no motorable road to cross the river. This means the forest on the other side is a more lone one. From our side of the bank we saw a big herd of spotted deer is crossing the river and coming towards us! Innumerous deer there were. They are approaching through the bank through several pathways, but finally descending into the river bed following a single narrow path in a well maintained queue. They were crossing the eater till a certain distance and then drinking water at a certain place near to our side of the bank. We felt it strange that they were not taking water at the first available spot itself. Our guide explained the probabilities – the waters everywhere in the river are not same. It’s not only the matter of cleanliness, tastes also vary from point to point. Considering all the points only the herd decides from where they can drink. How true is it! The forest knowledge inherited by genes.

I fantasized to keep on sitting on the banks of this River Pench on a moonlit night. Geography – environment – atmosphere – situation, everything is different, still I was recalling my first visit to River Jayanti that I saw in night. River Pench – Hindi word for spiraling – flows spiraling its way – and hence, gets its name.

In a nearby water body we spotted fishing eagle, concentrating on the water. A kingfisher kept on trying to disturb the eagle so that the prey won’t get shared – without any avail. Nothing could bother the eagle.

In this safari we didn’t see any tiger.

We took our resort brought breakfast in a clearing meant for this inside forest. There are good restrooms here. There is a small souvenir shop also and we purchased a few things.

We could not visit the interpretation center at Turia gate. From the shop keeper here it seemed that is closed for some time for some reasons. But we could not make any point for sure.

We returned to resort by 11 am. Our next safari is again from Turia by 2 pm.

In this safari, our guide tried a lot to spot a tiger – at least that what he shown, but of no avail. The forest changes its colors almost hourly, but we felt the morning safari was the better one.

In this evening safari we stopped for a while at the elephant camp of forest department. There is a small half open bamboo enclosure here to be used as washroom. Quite pathetic.

On our return to the resort we took tea and alu-chop (potato snack) from a shop in Turia village. They were good. By 6 pm we reached resort.

We spent two of our four safaris and there was no tiger sighting. Thus our chance to spot a tiger became just half. With this half chance only we took the morning safari next day through Khudsapar gate. This is the Maharashtra side of Pench forest. We got a lovely lady as our guide. We were half drained by then, and still in a lookout to spot the big.

The forest here is very dense, there is no open land anywhere. We can’t see anything after a bit distance. Other animals sighting is not much probable here, only the tigers.

Both the guides of previous day kept on explaining and cheering us up through their speech. This lady seldom opens her mouth. The driver and the guide saw something together and told that a tiger has crossed the road. Very good, but we are not cheered up, we had been hearing this throughout the previous day.

But after a little proceeding, suddenly our guide told, “see, it’s sitting there”. – what! But, yes, actually it’s there on the bank of a water hole. A tigress of around 4 years of age – Baras. We were the first to spot it.

We stood still. Only sound is from clicking of camera. Bother kids were fast asleep what was actually a boon at this moment. Then came more cars.

She once sits, once stands, yawns, drinks water – total leisure. Then she started walking through the canal – slowly and steadily. The convoy of cars started following her through the bank of the canal. There also once she sits, once stands and so on. Then she disappeared through the canal itself.

Our guide told that it’s not adult yet and still with her mother. She has not marked her territory yet. A tiger will be bigger than this. Head will be of a flat pot. Paw print of a tigress is rectangular, but for a tiger it’s square.

How tigers mark their territory! They stand on the hind legs near a tree and stretch their full body length to reach the highest point possible on the tree. There they scratch. This shows how big they are. When another tiger comes into the marked area, by seeing this scratch marks they know who is bigger! If the new comer is bigger, they think to stay in. But in the opposite case, the smaller one says a silent good bye and leaves.

We spotted such scratch marks on the trees.

The forest road here is very rough and a cloud of dust always follows you. We got exhausted. There is again a clearing where we stopped to take breakfast. The restroom here again is that bamboo enclosure and as usual pathetic.

We reached at resort by 10 am. But today we were far more exhausted. It was really a tough task to go for that 2 pm safari again on the same day. Still somehow we went for it. This time we were trying to spot tiger at any cost and finally could not do it. No sighting of tiger. Nothing very special to mention. But some Indian gaur finally came into sight and just before coming out of the gate, there we saw a neel gai. These two animals we could not see in our previous safaris.

There is again a souvenir shop just outside of the gate, and again we shopped tit-bits.

On the way return to resort we stopped at a tea shop, inaugurated on that day only, beside Kohka lake. We climbed the bund of the lake to have a sight of it.

A big, red, round moon of the full moon night rose opposite of the lake.

After reaching resort it was not possible for anybody to carry on anything further.

The lunch on this day was a sort of activity. They prepared the food in clay pots, on clay oven using wood and dry leaves as fuel. The food was served on ground under the banyan tree on leaf. A fun to have.

Suman has returned by then. We’d have to talk to him. Next day is our return. Hence packing to be finished. There is a plan to visit the potters’ village Pachdhar next morning. But body is asking only for sleep.

Anyway, we could do all one by one. Suman brought forest honey from Kanha. It’s a mix of honey from honey combs from trees, structures and soil. The local tribesmen over there gather it from Kanha forest, probably not from core, but from buffer zones.

There was some discussion. And there came the plan to visit Pachdhar next morning.

Finally I, Kritika and Riya only went to Pachdhar. Suman came along. Gypsy took the same forest road connecting our resort to Khawasa. While coming it was almost dusk, now it’s morning. Then it was becoming cold, now it’s warming up. It was an AC Xylo that time, now it’s an open Gypsy. The journey is far more enchanting now. In this journey we soaked ourselves to the trees. We saw the katha tree, kendu tree, mahua tree, arjun tree, and lot of shal and segun – the teaks.

There is something called ghost tree. By shedding its bark, it takes three different colors – white, pink and brown – in annual span. One beautiful of this type we saw in Kudsapar forest. There was a small branch from which all the barks had not fallen by then. Some are still hanging. Too beautiful to behold.

Suman told, originally Pench forest was very very beautiful. But while leaving India, the British took all the teak trees from Pench. The forest became void. The present forest is a young one. Maybe of 60-70 years old trees are there. The Kudsapar section is even younger. Is it the reason that Turia appeared more attractive than Khudsapar! He told there are even 1000-1500 years old trees in Kanha forest! Sometime we’ll see.

Pachdhar is the potters’ village. We went to a house. They showed how to make pottery. Here they used electric potting wheel. The manual ones are there, elder potters still use them, but present generation works on the electric one. We also tried our hands on the wheel and made something like cup or lamp etc.

We purchased a lot of things from there. They are not costly. They are really beautiful. The only constrain is how to carry them home! This restricted our picking things up.

Suman brought a lot of their wasted or rejected items. He can give little touch ups here and there and they’ll become beautiful. He’ll use them for his resort.

Our return path to resort was through typical Madhya Pradesh villages, by giving pass to goat kids and chicks. From a shop on the way we could get that fantastic pickle. And a bottle of mahua from a tribal home.

We returned – then, anyway we returned.

Ladakh

Himalayas always used to be amazing whenever I have been in them. On 10^th July, when we flew from Delhi to Leh early in morning, within no time we started crossing the great Himalayas. At the beginning, it was the familiar greenery of the heights – the lower Himalayas. Then started the snow capped mountains, the valleys of ice, the ridges, the gorges – altogether, the variety of whites.

And finally the rugged face of our cold desert destination – the Ladakh range with Sindhu decorating it – came in sight. It was difficult to believe that we were actually witnessing all this – the shades of browns on the earth and the jewel blue sky hanging on them.

Landing at Leh airport is unique experience in itself. Leh is famed being one of the most geographically dangerous airports. To enhance the thrill, the runway lays in opposite direction from the way of its only civil connection – Delhi. So the plane has to take a turn to align itself with the runway for landing. When it starts turning between the mountains on both sides of the airstrip, the toughest atheist will also pray for the skill of the pilot. Armed Indian army stand guard in and around the airport as this is an army controlled airport.

We are on our tour in Ladakh during its summer. Outside temperature was around 15 deg C. It is tolerable, but to give our body enough time and scope to acclimatize with the high altitude, dry and extreme climate, it is advisable to guard us with some comfortable warm clothes while coming out of the artificial temperature of flight. Otherwise the first ‘not required’ attitude can bring high altitude problems later in the day which can stay for even longer.

Once landed!!

Leh airport lounge is a funny one. It is of just one hall size. Everywhere decorations and structures have directly come in from the Tibetan Buddhism story books. The two luggage conveyer belts run on their moods. Anytime either or both of them may stop without any visible reason even though queues of people are awaiting their luggage.

Out of the airport we were received by Tsenwang Yangjor – our driver cum guide for next one week. We were readily greeted with a hearty ‘Juley’ – the Ladakhi derivation of Tibetan ‘Tashi Delek’ – that can mean anything from ‘hi’, ‘thanks’, ‘bye’ or any other general greeting.

We stayed in Botho guest house in Shey. So instead of driving towards 3 km away Leh town, we drove 15 km to Botho. On the way, the first thing that catches eyes is the layers and layers of rugged high terrains. We kept on moving on keeping a safe distance from them as a start. Later we have to go in their depths when we will want to go outer places of more populated Leh.

The next that brings thrill, at least to Indians, is the Sindhu river, from which the name of this subcontinent had been derived. We always read about it in history and in geography from the very beginning of our school days. Later some of us read stories based or related to this same river. Somehow for Indians, their identity is inter-tangled with Sindhu. And now, the same great existence appears in front of us and flowing in humble silence through its self created valley under the ever guardianship of the high mountain ranges. Our side of the Sindhu runs Ladakh range and the opposite bank is hailed with the great Himalayan ranges.

On the way we pass by Shey palace – the ancient home of the Ladakh kings and within two minutes we reach our guest house to be welcomed by Thinles Namgyal – our host. As we reach their territory, both Namgyal and Yangjor become ‘acholey’s – the respected call for elder brother.

Botho Guest house.. With ‘Acholes’..

With Thinless Namgyal..

Rooms are the combination of basic needs and comforts. The tall glass windows open on the Leh-Manali highway. The sounds of a lone lorry, army vehicles, bikers and sometimes taxi type small cars make one wondering the silence of the place. In fact, Ladakh is not really silent. Every now and then a gush of wind makes huge sound. This sound travels from one end to the other end of the valley, as if touching the skyline. It’s awesome, even though a bit ghostly.

We were given strict instruction by Namgyal acholey to take breakfast and take rest till almost lunchtime to acclimatize. We followed this with extreme eagerness as to catch the flight we had to start from Delhi hotel by 2 am. And then this sudden altitude gain made us not very comfortable. Breakfast was simple bread and omelet with tea. This tea was always served in a never ending fashion. Most probably in our entire stay, we could never finish the 2 ltr flask during each serve.

We tried to sleep after breakfast. Personally it was a disturbed sleep for me – a symptom of altitude sickness. So then on I started pumping in medicine into my system to keep it away from this problem.

Thiksey

Our only outing for the day was to Thiksey gompa, around 4 km away from the guest house. We passed through the village sides of the Leh neighborhoods and climbed up to the gates of the gompa. This was our first gompa visit in Ladakh.

We took lunch in the gompa restaurant and started climbing up through the staircase. At this altitude, problem of breathlessness is well expected. The only way to keep going is to take rest frequently and properly what means it is not advisable to talk or move for photo-shoots when you are supposed to sit down between the climbs.

Thiksey gompa offered the first panoramic view of the locality. The mountains are always defining the horizon, some green patches suddenly appear to mark a village, some Euler trees are dotting some boundaries and always the feeling of the existence of the Sindhu river. A truck may come up through the hills from a long distance. The sound of its roaring engine is heard from top of the mountain at a time when the truck itself has not appeared in vision.

Thiksey gompa has its own importance in the Tibetan Buddhist population of the region. Well, for tourists, the importance is not much understood, but nevertheless the beauty and mystic appearance are unmistakable. Like all other monasteries there, the doors of various halls and rooms of the gompa are closed with practiced punctuality even though tourists are arriving or awaiting a glimpse inside.

Visit to Thiksey on the first day in Ladakh is a good option as it is situated at bit lower altitude than Leh and it’s really nearby. In Thiksey, while climbing the steps to the gompa, the first symptoms of high altitude sickness may appear. As till then one is at a lower altitude, and has enough time to understand own body needs and take rest accordingly, visiting Thiksey is a cool option to pass some first part of the limited time without wasting it sitting in room.

On one side of Thiksey car parking lot, is the approaching road that comes through brown shaded rough terrain. The other side is a small countryside – a sudden green patch of human habitat.

Lamayuru and Alchi

On the way – Magnetic hill. Confluence. Moon land.

Next day we set out for Lamayuru and Alchi. Some tourists chose to stay in either of these two hamlets to reduce physical strain and to enjoy remote mountain establishments. We chose to complete it in one day and come back to the coziness of our guest house in Shey.

The route to Lamayuru itself has many things on the way to spellbind its visitors.

After leaving Leh, one can see the highest LPG bottling plant of Indian Oil on the roadside. I doubt, the location may insist anybody to think of having a job in that small lone unit. This is the same company (one of the Fortune 500) that has the fame of having world’s highest fuel station here.

Magnetic hill

Magnetic hill seems to be an optical illusive phenomenon where the obstructed or absence of horizon makes one mistaking the slope of the road. There are two such spots in India. One here, in Ladakh, the other one is in Gujarat. The myth says that the surrounding hills are having magnetic properties that attract things. Leave alone arguments, the shear and naked existence of the surrounding mountains is enough to make one believe any myth that is told (or maybe written, as it was done on the sign board by Border Road Organization (BRO)) standing over there. Ironically the illusion has a man-made effect. It started happening due to the dynamite explosions to make roads.

Sangam or the confluence

The journey of Zanskar river ends at the confluence with Sindhu and the two carry on as Sindhu henceforth. The colors of the waters of the two rivers are different. Zanskar looks muddy and Sindhu greenish from the height of the road.

In evening when we stopped at the confluence of Sindhu and Zanskar – locally known as Sangam, there was enough daylight on the road, but it was dimly lit down at the water. We are at the foothill of the guardian mountains. We are actually witnessing the river at so close vicinity on whose name the entire subcontinent is named after. The ‘Indus Valley Civilization’ – it was here – it is still here. We read in books, we mugged to pass exams, and now, we are feeling the wet air from its waters on our faces. The stones it washes carry the history of origin of our homeland. Indus Valley Civilization – I am touching the water of its mother. This is too much to think – to feel – to carry.

The chilly breeze from the river has moisture in it – a rare occasion in Ladakh. The familiar wetness of air is intoxicating. It is difficult to leave the river bank.

For enthusiast tourist, here river rafting facility is available. Come in morning before 10 am and you may choose a rafting expedition based on your experience and endurance level.

This was the only place this time where we came face to face with river Zanskar – at the end of its journey. But it has an entire valley on its name. Padum is the main operating point in Zanskar valley, around 175 km from Shey.

Nimoo

After crossing the confluence and going farther for a while you can see the greenery of Nimoo establishment. We stopped here for tea and ladies washroom. It was not very clean, but it didn’t force us to opt for open air.

Before reaching Nimoo, tendency or even actual vomiting may happen. It’s advisable to take plenty of water in such case, avoid oily food and go under some immediate medication that suits you. Without such precautionary measures, the rest of the journey may become horrible and the sick feeling may continue for some days more or even worse, for the rest of the stay in high altitudes.

Before we reached our next photo session halt at Moon Land, we passed places like Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, Basgo etc. without stopping. At Khaltsi we had to make an entry of our vehicle. Here little Ladakhi women come to the cars to sell fresh apricot – extremely cheap and tasty. But our driver told that this was not of good quality. Well, as first time fresh apricot eaters, we were not having enough knowledge to differentiate least the tastes of different apricots. Now is the time for another warning. Raisins may bring nausea to some people. One of our friends had got this. He was OK till the time he just ate one raisin. So once more, avoid anything sweet.

On the way forward, we stopped at an unknown spot which was part of the extremely beautiful road. As this was not any regular tourist stopover, there was no rush. We could even sit on the road. Sindhu flows along the road a little below. There was a small hamlet a few km away, greenery of which was looking like emerald from here.

Moon land

The next stop is at Moon Land. This one is nothing but another roadside. The mountains around are shaped, arranged and colored in a manner that there is no shade anywhere. Entire light gets reflected.

We were there at almost midday and the hills were looking white. Possibly, at moon light, the whiteness of these hills against the backdrop of black night would give the appearance of sharp contrast. From such look maybe the name of the area has come as Moon Land.

Lamayuru

Next stop is at Lamayuru. It’s a small village with an ancient gompa looming over from the hilltop. The entire slopes of this hill are occupied by Lamayuru gompa’s various flat roof huts. Most of these are the living quarters of the lamas. Some are used for some other purposes like kitchen, storage etc. also.

From top of the hill, sitting in the shade of gompa walls, one can see the village at the foothill. Some water resource has created a green patch in the midst of dry peaks. Some agriculture has been done. Some crops are being grown. Time of harvest has not come yet. It will be sometimes in the end of July or beginning of August, that is, at the end of the Ladakhi summer.

Breathing in Lamayuru is a task. For every step one has to mind their breath. The thinness of air is evident in this place. Particularly, it is not cold. The midday heat is burning. But there is no sweat and with every breath body water is going out. The only option to survive is to take water aplenty, as even sitting to take rest also feels exhausting sometimes. Good that just at the main gates of the gompa there is a restaurant. Even though high priced, but food is nice and truly speaking, life saving.

Lamayuru is one of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh. The main prayer hall is not very big, neither extensively decorated. The baseness of everything is evident everywhere. Walls are painted, pillars are covered with silk – but in everything, showing off is strictly absent. The room behind the main prayer hall is somewhat fearsome. I suddenly entered into that, it was dimly lit as windows are not enough to allow daylight; two ferocious looking masks were hanging from two pillars. A strange uneasiness caught hold of me. Something that can help to get rid of such feeling is the collection of old Buddhist literature. All in pothi form, with wooden covers for top and bottom. These are stacked in the shelves throughout the main prayer hall side walls. I have no idea how old are those, but from the way they are kept it seems they are still in use by today’s lamas.

After witnessing all the grandeur of the gompa, it is somehow disheartening to hear from a little lama asking money from the visitor. His demand was not more than ‘one rupees’, maybe enough for a lollypop. And as in so many other places, there was an old Ladakhi couple with whirling prayer wheels in hands who demanded money from tourists after giving pose for photos. Poverty and limited time to earn in a year bring out the worse from better people.

Alchi

Our next destination would be Alchi gompa. We kept on hearing Alchi-Lamayuru – Alchi-Lamayuru all the time. The inter-tangling way of their appearance in tourist itinerary guides made some of us even thinking that these two names together constitute the name of a single place. Well, as it is not so, we started from Lamayuru after lunch. Again we passed the same Moon Land, same river flowing in opposite direction of the road slope and the same rugged mountains with its sound of silence and wind.

To enter into Alchi village, we have to cross a fragile bridge on Sindhu. The road is extremely rugged, which has become familiar to us. Then we cross through desert looking grounds with some stray domestic animals in sight. After some ups and downs, we reach the boundary of the Alchi village.

The gompa complex is in the midst of green fields in full bloom. A narrow foot path, with souvenir shops on both sides, finds its way to the gate of the gompa. There are small village houses along this path. It is the walking through a high altitude village. The gompa by itself looks more a village home than a gompa. It is majorly single storied. The scattered small chambers on the rooftops are the living quarters of the few resident lamas.

It is said that the wood carving and wall painting of Alchi gompa had been done by a Kashmiri pandit. The colors of the painting had been prepared from gem stones. We saw some foreign tourists were using torch to see the paintings closely. Maybe they were trying to get rid of the darkness that is everywhere inside gompas or they were trying to make the paintings glitter in light to show their gem characteristic. There had been periodical restoration in the gompa. Today what we can see is the wood carvings on the frescos have very prominent Hindu influence which carries the truthfulness of the story of those being done by a pandit. There is a nice staircase leading from ground floor to a top chamber in one of the temples. The stair case is nothing but a sturdy tree trunk with steps scooped out from it. It’s innovative and nice to look at.

Like most of the Ladakh gompas, Alchi also has a temple for Maitreya the Future Buddha and a grand statue of Avalokiteshwara Buddha. There may be many differences among different forms of Buddhas, but the basis difference that we could locate being a lay person is the gesture of fingers – Mudra. Most probably different Mudras on different statues are carrying different meaning to be conveyed to human kind.

Like the village homes, there are trees inside the gompa premises. So bird population is also a sight over there. We went at the end of the day, time for the birds to return to nests and time of having fewer tourists around. This may be the reason that we could watch more birds and louder chirping in Alchi than in other gompas.

Alchi gives some sort of physical comfort or peace in its premises. Reason for this may be its less height of 3100 m than that of Lamayuru which is sitting at a height of 3510 m. The feeling of coming home and there is nowhere to go at least for the day comes throughout the body and mind. Especially, as we visited at the end of the day, the desire of retiring was even more.

Anyway, we had to come out from the place and return to Shey. Before that like the ritual expected to be performed by any tourist, we did our souvenir shopping from the wayside shops lining up to the gompa gates. Every shop is overflowing with their artifact collections. Everything is horribly high priced. But remember, you are not shopping for need, but for entertainment. And the entertainer has only four months to earn and a whole year to feed. So three times high prices are justified. We, the two girls in our group, purchased some jewelry items from an abandon collection. Others went for decorative items like Buddha face etc.

In and around Leh

Previous day was too tiring with all of its journeys through several high altitudes that we needed a resting day to regenerate our energy levels. We chose to roam around Leh leisurely for one full day.

Hall of fame

We started with “Hall of Fame” – the war memorial museum of Indian army just outside Leh near the airport. The theme of this museum is 1962 war with Pakistan and the Kargil war. Like other war memorials, it contains various medals, weaponry, battle and survival equipment etc. The articles I personally felt most attractive are the letters on display from soldiers. They reveal tremendous mental states of a man when he sees death face to face at every moment of his existence.

 Spituk Gompa

Our next hangout is Spituk gompa. Literally it looks over Leh army cantonment. This gompa is well known in army for Kalimata as one of its deities. The deity is actually Tara in Buddhism which is similar to Kali for Hindus. Both the religions are clubbed together over this deity.

View from the gompa is divided in two parts. The front portion shows the stretch of army and air force settlement in Leh. The backside view contains green agricultural fields, Sindhu river, wavy plains at the feet of rugged mountain on the opposite bank of the river and brown mountains as the boundary of the scene. These mountains being a bit away from the gompa hill, the panorama is more beautiful than expected.

Leh palace

We had heard much about the palace, but it did not seem to us that attractive. Perhaps, as just previous day we had been to more beautiful and fascinating places that this palace could not add to our expectation. Or maybe, we were too tired to put much mind into it. Whatever might be the reason, we did not put much effort and time in the palace.

It is said that Leh palace is a miniature of Lhasa’s Potala palace. The vicinity of Sindhu even resembles with the Brahmaputra or Tsangpo as it is called in Tibet. But another recent study shows it is actually other way around. Potala was built following Leh palace design.

Leh palace is presently in ruining state and there is an effort to repair it. But maybe due to the volume of the repairing work, the outcome of the effort is not much visible. There is no organized navigation direction for the visitors to explore the palace. Many rooms are so dark that it seems not worth to enter there. And because of such continuous maintenance, the fresco of the palace has become really dull. The charm and glory of the ex living quarters of royal family is somehow missing in the building.

The rooms and corridors of the palace are less high. Something that is characteristic for the ancient structures of this region. Possibly, the climate again played the decisive role for such design.

There is an open terrace in the palace. From here you can see the old Leh is stretched from just bottom of the palace. Frankly, the area is not good looking, and it is difficult to believe that the area was such slum-like when the kings were there in the palace. This area shows the struggling face of the town.

Atop the hillock of the palace, there is Tsemo Gompa. One has to climb a stretch of steps to reach there. Our exhaustion did not allow us to explore it.

Shanti Stupa

Our last stop of the day in Leh was at Shanti Stupa. This is a Japanese stupa, dedicated for world peace. The presence of golden Buddha within the voluminous pure white stupa on the hillock where it is located binds one to the serenity of the place. There is a high mountain at the back of the stupa and the front view stretches up to the Leh palace, Tsemo Gompa above it – the small remote houses in the same hill where the palace stands and the patches of greens and village house everywhere in the locality. This place is not to explore, but to sit comfortably and spend time as much as one wants.

Air will be blowing hard without any pause, it will be difficult to keep on staring, but like any other high elevation platform, it will not allow one to move away.

There is a humble sign board at Shanti Stupa asking the visitors to maintain the calm of the place. So nobody is prone to run around or shout. Sometimes, it seems keeping calm in such places comes naturally. First of all, it is so difficult to do normal works of day to day life that it is really not possible to spend energy lavishly just for fun. Evidence for this we can see in the style of music and dance of such places. They are never much energy consuming. Even for us, the low land people, they may also seem monotonous or boring. But the real reason is to hold energy as much as possible.

The second and the more significant reason maybe the way of life. People are contended. They don’t have to convince others all the times. Nature has taught them to be understanding and tolerable to many things that we cannot imagine. So finally, they don’t really have to shout. We saw in Ladakh, sometimes when we ourselves talked with loud voice, which is natural to us, it echoes so hard and sometimes it vibrates inside the room that it makes us ashamed of ourselves to create such noise. Possibly, these natural replies also make the people to be soft speaking and soft behaving.

Sindhu darshan

At the end of the day, once again we all came to the waters of Sindhu at Sindhu Darshan site. This is a project initiated by Mr. LK Advani to let people from rest of India know that the holy Sindhu covers at least some portion of its long journey through our country, not entirely through Tibet and present Pakistan. An annual cultural festival is being arranged since some years now at this site. It is good to be near the river once again, but here it is narrow and somehow shy. The vastness and kingly appearance in Sangam is not present here. As if this much interference of people is not really enjoyed by the river. It was even darker and cooler, so we came back to guest house.

Nubra Valley

The trip to Nubra valley takes two days with one night stay in Diskit – the most prominent town of the region.

Two rivers – Nubra and Shyok – together form Nubra valley. Shyok is the larger one with wide flat mud color water. Its contribution in forming the valley is more than river Nubra. But in Ladakhi, Shyok means death. Now none will wish to live in a place which means ‘death’. So came the way out, the valley is named after the other, though minor, river – Nubra.

The Road..

Nubra is at the foothill of Karakoram Range. So when we go from Leh, we have to cross part of Himalyas, entire Ladakh Range and descend towards Karakoram. To do so, we have to cross namely the highest motorable pass in the world – Khardung La, at a height of 5602 meters. Khardung La is famous as bi-cycling summit also. A clear steep road leads to the pass. There are tourists throughout the road from Leh cycling up to Khardung La. Oxygen level at Khardung La is significantly low and many tourists need the help of portable oxygen cylinders. When we were preparing for Nubra, Yangjor achole made us purchasing a cylinder in the previous evening. We crossed Khardung La in morning, it was perfectly chilly. There may be temptation for tourists to be there for longer time, but it is recommended to leave the place sooner and come to the areas with higher oxygen in air.

In the month of July also we got ice just after crossing Khardung La. We just stopped somewhere on the roadside and climbed a bit on the slope of the ice covered hill side. Ice was melting at that time, and it would go on for some more days before starting freezing again for a prolonged winter.

The road after Khardung La is tough. Just after the pass starts mud road apparently without any end. And as a cherry on the cake it was under construction and repair in most of the places. Riding on such a road is an adventure in itself that reminds you the real feel when we see the beautiful picture taken of the same road.

This trialing road ends at Khardung village, after crossing North Pullu, the base of Khardung La pass, which is the first stop after crossing Khardung La. Our Thinles achole packed bread-butter early in the morning for breakfast. Some of us took that and others opted for the Maggie available in the only food outlet of the village. The same eatery provided tea also.

Khrdung is one among many villages those came to be known to people due to their strategic location on the busy tourist route. This road that we were travelling was part of historic silk route. From the plains of India to central Asia, this was the major link. This road stretched itself beyond Nubra valley towards Baltistan and Tashkhand, but both the extensions are closed for political reasons. Here in Khrdung, there is a small mountain stream flowing. Yaks and djos of the village graze around the stream whole day. In night all of them will be locked up in the community cattle shed to secure them from wild animals.

Well, it is difficult to imagine that presence of wild animals is a threat here, but they are there. The mountains around us have unimaginable nooks and corners, which can be haven for the wilderness of nature.

There was a small log bridge on the stream meant particularly for the cattle. Though water was not deep enough to drown such a big beast, flow was certainly strong enough to topple them over and bring injuries. The clever biggies never faltered to keep on crossing through that bridge only.

Leave Khardung and head further for the next stretch before seeing any hope of shelter. We stopped briefly at an unknown river bank, just before another bridge. The spot seemed well frequented by daily commuters. Sort of cooking and eating ground. We saw a bus coming from an interior village heading Leh. The passengers got down at this spot and took their simple portable food and refreshed at the river. The group was not of tourists. Some people grouped up to take the long journey to accomplish their unavoidable works related to the rest of the world. For us, it was strange to witness such activities. Their journey, it seems, might have been longer than ours, provided they are coming from farther hamlets than Nubra.

The place itself was of pristine nature. Slopes on the surrounding mountains were gradual, there was meadow and there was the crystal blue sky and the foaming river below. We could stretch, we could walk, and we could recompose and make ready ourselves for the upcoming road.

After leaving the river side, our next stop was at Khalsar village. Here on river Shyok kept our company till Diskit. It was post noon when we reached Khalsar. Achole told we can stop and take lunch here or directly go to Diskit driving 3 hours more. We chose to fuel ourselves up.

Khalsar is bigger than Khardung. There are some restaurants to choose from. Mostly they are serving basic meals, which taste awesome at such locations. Go to the end of the market area, there is river Shyok, with its big fat muddy hue. It tells you “see me, I will go with you up to the destination, till when you don’t have any more halt”.

We left Khalsar and took up the dust again. This part of the road was winding blindly sometimes. I was sitting in the front seat of Innova, it was appearing anytime it may hit anything or jump into nothing. After a long time of this tour, I read the novel “Shahzada Darashukoh”, where some parts of present Afghanistan are described. I was feeling as if I have seen everything in that novel myself, I was particularly remembering this journey.

After Khalsar, we descended for some time and drove on the level of Shyok. This part of the road is too difficult to forget. On the left of us was the mighty rolling Himalayan range. Right of us was peaceful Shyok (even though rough under currents were inside) and after Shyok the visible range was of Karakoram. It’s difficult even to imagine such a scene. We read Karakoram only in geography books and saw some diagrams in maps. Now here he was awaiting me. I don’t have suitable vocabulary.

During this drive we crossed some marshlands. Some strange phenomenon at this height. But well, Nubra is at lower altitudes than Leh.

It was afternoon when we reached the village of Diskit. I got fascinated by seeing a Kendriya Vidyalaya in the village. It has the structure of stone huts. Suitable for the place and in total contradiction to other KVs that we see in plains. The first feeling of fascination vanished with the awe. Here also teachers will be posted. Some of them may come from the farthest end of the country. They would take an eternity to reach here from their natives. Tremendous it is here when you are in India.

Our hotel in Diskit was Hotel Sten Del. Nice and comfortable. We already had lunch. So we took bath and slept off for a while.

If I say, we went out in evening, the misunderstanding may raise the doubt that we went out in dark. Here to remind again, evening in Ladakh does not come so easily. Around 8 pm only it starts getting dark. So we had enough time to make an outing to Hunder.

Hunder

Camel safari in sand dunes of Hunder!!

Hundar is famous for its white sand dunes and double humped Bactrian camels. They say (not the camels), these camels are the descendents of the camels that traveled from Bactria to Indus valley through silk route. There is nothing not to believe this statement as Ladakh lays on the silk route as a very important nodal link between mountainous central Asia and Indian plains.

Here we come in touch with River Nubra. A small stream. Far away is flowing River Shyok, washing the feet of mighty Karakoram. We could see the mountain walls of Karakoram but were discouraged by Yangjor Achchole to go to the river. Here comes the famous fact of judging distance in mountains. What was looking so near actually was a day’s walk.

Well, we dropped the idea to see the other river and amused ourselves in the small stream on which the valley is named. The river banks here are of white sand dunes. The Bactrian camels would take you to take a round over the sands. It was nothing of a comfortable ride, but enough adventurous though. But, I personally did not like the idea of riding the animal, all for fun.

While coming back from Hundar, you can stop anywhere to see the span of Karakoram, Nubra, sand dunes and color changing sky above. We stopped at one nook of the road.

In hotel it was just to take dinner, play a bit of board games and go to bed. We have to start our return journey next morning.

We got some time in morning to roam around the hotel. There are some more hotels and homes nearby and some beautiful village gardens of flowers and vegetables. It was a happy and leisure roaming after breakfast.

Diskit

Diskit monastery

We left the hotel and headed back. Before leaving the valley we planned to visit Diskit Gompa. It has a huge open air Maitreya Buddha statue. On the way up to the Gompa, there is a small curio shop. I purchased some Ladakh themed t-shrit, knots, pendants etc. It is run by the Gompa itself and a friendly monk was the keeper.

Here in Diskit Gompa we saw that a bottle of whisky was offered to Buddha. Offering like this first I saw in Sikkim, most probably in the monastery of Pakyong. There toffee, candy etc. were offered to Buddha. Buddhism is such a regular way of life for the believers that offering can be anything from common people’s platters.

There is a story in Diskit Gompa. It was told by a young monk. It seems there kept a hand and head of a Mongol demon used to harm people during and after his lifetime. Keeping his hand and head in the Gompa ensures that the demon cannot spread his harms onto the people overcoming the good charm of the monastery. We actually saw these body parts, but unable to authenticate the truthfulness of the story.

Wherever we went to a monastery, we could see the elaborated ribbon braid door pullers. They will be hung on the rings of the doors beautifying them and solving the purpose of a heavy hinged door puller. Diskit is no exception.

We climbed up through the main steps. While returning, I and Vijith took a different set of steps just out of curiosity. It was along a gorge and though stone railing was there, it was always giving the empty stomach feeling of toppling over. Here we noticed a strange sound. There was nothing visible and the sound was suggesting that it comes from a heavy stream. We tried to lean over the gorge to find the stream deep beneath. It was of no use. We were stunned and we decided to stand and hear for a while in hope of making out something. As we concentrated on the sound, it became the only sound around us. It was louder and clearer now. Finally it gave us the explanation. Our staircase railing guards us from the adjacent deep gorge. After that, there is a steep mountain wall. Not very high, but high enough to block the vision of its other side. After that wall, there is another gorge and through this gorge the stream is flowing. So it is like there are several parallel mountain walls stood over there revealing the cross section view of the valley to us.

The high statue of Maitreya is on the adjacent hillock of the Gompa. Climb down from the statue platform and there is the prayer room and Dalai Lama house. Me and Sandeep started peeping in the Dalai Lama house with full curiosity. A monk was cleaning the building at that time. He allowed us to go inside. It is awesome. It’s a small establishment. But it has everything that a man of such height may need during his occasional visit here. Other than bedroom, bathroom etc. it has drawing room, preaching room and even a library. Seeing this was seeing the personal chamber of the highest man of one of the world’s oldest religion. Both of us were awestruck. The same monk took us to the prayer hall and explained how old are the Thangkas hanging on the walls over there. He told that even older Thangkas are there in the treasury of the Gompa and brought into display only on special occasions. Co-incidentally he visited Kushalnagar monastery, the same that we visited during our Coorg tour. So we got some common points to talk on. Here he showed us to tie silk scarf praying something.

We left Diskit and headed for our den in Shey. Now we were traveling as experienced travelers, along with Shyok. The breeze from Shyok was brushing our faces with a bit of moisture. We were seeing small hamlets along the other bank of the river and so on.

Same road again

We reached Khardung La by noon. Previous day it was morning and we were wearing everything that we could carry. I personally was looking like a standing colorful mummy then. But now, when sun is high on our head I was wearing just a cotton full shirt. Stunning is Ladakh, stunning are its deviations.

At this broad day light, we could enjoy the valley scenes from top. Ice was melting. Sky was taking the clearer hue. Everything was ready to be pictured.

While return from Nubra, we witnessed the forming of rivers. There was ice on the mountain walls. They started melting with the approach of summer. The drops were finding easiest paths on the mountain walls and flowing down. Many tiny streams are joining and becoming a noticeable one before they reach the valley bed below. It’s awesome. Better geographical museum than this! No way.

Reach Shey, reach home. Next day we have to start early, we are going to Pangong Tso.

Halfway to Pangong Tso

A strange day. Durbuk village. These should be the key words for this day. We started early in the morning. Our bigger achole had already packed boiled eggs and bread-butter for everybody as breakfast to be taken on the way. We were all a bit down due to last day’s long journey from Nubra. Still we kept our spirits up and started cheerfully. As usual I sat beside chhote achole, our driver. He put “Om Ma Ne Padme Hum” chant in the car player. Actually we liked it on the previous day and he might have thought it would be cherished again. But things were different now. With previous day’s unrecovered tiredness and early morning getting ready the continuous, monotonous chanting brought incessant sleep to my eyes. It’s no way recommended to doze off sitting beside the driver, and without doubt, it is far more unacceptable on the roads of such high altitudes. So I decided to go to back seat of our Innova, normally I hate most.

We were continuously crossing dawning hamlets. A few army outposts. And we were continuously gaining altitudes. After a brief drive through relatively straight roads, suddenly we took a whirling path. This road was going straight to Chang-la, another high altitude pass awaiting us.

As we drove on, the strange Durbuk village kept us company on the left. It sounds strange that a mountain village kept company to a long stretch of road. But it is in this way. The road is on one side of the mountain. Going higher and higher. The village is in the valley at the foot of this straight mountain. So with each second turn, we can see the village lying down. There are fields, crops spread over it. The village was looking like a green carpet woven with stunning artistic skill. Just imagine, on my right, I guess I can say, “50 shades of gray”, that was what the mountain wall gave to me. And on my left, far below my feet, there was green revolution. I don’t know whether I’ll ever forget this!

While still going up, I saw meerkat for the first time in my life. And you see, I saw it in wild. A shy creature. Posed for a while and ran to its hide out.

After a short break, we drove to Chang-la and stopped to have some steaming tea.

It was super chill at that altitude. It’s really very difficult to explain the cold bites we were getting over there. No scale of hot beverage seemed hot enough. Perhaps I saw similar cold in my subconscious mind when I traveled to Gomukh. But there I was nestled between maa and baba. Here I had to stand alone, and yes, it was testing. Here also we got ice, but not as much as on Khardung-la.

The next part of the road is not much descriptive as I have already talked so much on Ladakh roads. Suddenly a cargo van came from opposite side and told achole something in Ladakhi. As we enquired, he answered in a cool manner, possibly road is blocked ahead due to landslide.

Hello, “landslide!”, have we heard it correct! But yes, we did. Anyway, he drove on. And we reached to the point where army was stopping any car approaching. There was a major landslide last night. People who stayed in Pangong could not come back, we who are about to go could not go further. We were among the early birds, that’s why we didn’t get any information. As we stood there many more cars kept on coming. All waited for some time. Army came and told it won’t be cleared within at least next four hours. Nice. We have to cancel Pangong for the day. Because, we have come just half way. If we wait for four hours, we won’t be able to come back by that night. And, there is seriously no guarantee that road will be cleared within four hours. It may take any length of time.

Seven broken hearts started homeward. Seven hungry mouths ate the boiled egg-bread-butter breakfast in the car. From Chang-la I was again on the front seat. Now I found myself peeling egg for a shy hesitating chhote achole. But that is life. When you are on the road, the outdoor people become the ones you care for most, as you are taken care of by them only.

But now what to do for the remaining time on that day! We decided to visit Hemis gompa. Largest in Ladakh. It has a nice museum also.

Hemis Gompa

Just outside the gompa, there is a small restaurant serving some options of food. We went for some plates of momo. After it was served and we started eating, we realized it was so much more for our stomachs. We sought help from the waiter-cum-manager. It did not seem a problem to him. He simply took the remaining untouched momos on another plate and counted the pieces to give the rational discount. How precious food is, can be understood only in such terrains where having money almost ensures nothing about availability of food.

Hemis is a giant. In all aspects. I didn’t feel anything special that I can feel to tell here. Maybe I was struggling to cope up with the fact that I am not seeing Pangong. Hemis national park surrounds the gompa and the village. While driving through it the mustard fields caught my eyes far more. A small spread of land. But due to the bright yellow of mustard flowers, it was looking like a bulged up canvas. That is what of Hemis remained in me.

Hemis over. Come home. Another day left with us. After that, an early morning flight to Delhi. Not sufficient to go for Tso Moriri, too much to try something around. And by then, we became a bit less interested in visiting more gompas. Otherwise we could have tried for Stok, it is very near to Shey. Anyway, we were confused on what to do.

In Leh as a local

I and Sandeep wanted to give Moriri a chance. But none other. They wanted to do white water rafting. Now, I personally don’t see rafting much interesting. It is something coming to a silent place and instead of feeling the silence, making some noise without any reason. Instead of listening to the waves’ sounds (so many are there), disturbing them with our chaos. And for Sandeep, he did it while visiting Gangtok and has no further wish.

So they four went for rafting on Sindhu. We two went to roam in Leh market to enjoy the gift that Sindhu keeps on giving us as the bearer of our 5000 years old civilization.

This day we chose to travel solely in public transports. Thus we got into a share auto that dropped us out of Leh market. We started through the first lane we saw. Shops shops shops. I was feeling why I don’t need all such exotic items in my hot native land! Why don’t I have to use heavy woolens all the time! It is not the matter what you shop. It is the matter where you roam. Lanes after lanes, all tranquil. Business is going on with utter low voices. Neither the customer, nor the shop owner tries to prove their point with any loud manner. I was visiting the nodal point of the silk route. I was realizing how nature’s silence, nature’s sounds make people express them in the same manner.

It was this day that we saw woman from Dah-Hanu villages. Theoretically the pure Aryan blood in her veins. She looked different. Perhaps due to be pure Aryan. But I felt she was carrying the name for this civilization.

We hopped in local café, local book store and started coming back. We planned to visit Shey gompa on the way. It has a tall sitting Maitreya Buddha statue, my favorite.

We got our directions to bus stand from locals. We climbed down age old stone public steps at the end of the market. Reached bus stand. Looked for our bus. Got into a packed one (the only available then). Got into talks with locals. Got clear instructions where to get down to go to Shey gompa from them and finally reached Shey gompa.

Shey gompa

 Shey gompa is inside Shey palace. We were exhausted due to continuous walks in thin oxygen. We climbed a bit, I took Sandeep’s backpack as he was panting heavily and we stood for a while. This time was already dark evening in south of Himalayas. But there it was just an afternoon. And as gompa and palace were open dawn to dusk, we had time.

There was ticket that we had to take. But it seems that monks are really not much examining. It is understood people would take ticket. And for locals, who are coming to worship Maitreya, no ticket is required.

Shey had been the ancient capital of Ladakh before Leh. Hence the palace has its intrinsic old era wood architecture. More technically gorgeous than Leh palace. The gompa here was meant for the royal family. You can go to many nooks and corners and find glimpses of religious objects. Just like our village home, important things are kept as per ease of access, not to show to the uncertain visitors. Shey palace and gompa will make you cozy, willing to sit on and on.

The Maitryea is as majestic as it can be. It is huge. I don’t bother to remember the measurements. The hugeness is enough to inspire awe. Data have no meaning. The statue sits in lotus position. Common Maitreya pose. It bears bright Tibetan Buddhist hues and appeals like nothing else. The ruining palace is in its grays, and inside, there sits the bright future Buddha. Once again, it is to see to feel. No description has any match.

From here we walked back to Botho. By then others came back. This night we four (other than the married couple) would spend in the typical Ladakhi room in ground floor with short bedside tables topped with apricot bowls and floor spread with thick and colorful mattresses.

We finished our dinner with acholes. Made the calculations. Paid the dues. Used outhouse toilet with torch – no electricity at that time. Went into a deep consciousness of last night in Ladakh for unknown time before another return.

Hampi

Hampi is only 12 km by road after reaching Hospet by train. Buses are available from Hospet. Otherwise auto runs directly from railway station.

Hospet is a small town. Once crossed there starts the rural Deccan. Fields, open lands and sometimes some even smaller towns or villages. There is a beautiful canal on the way.

Hampi is almost a small village now. While coming from Hospet, after crossing some archeological ruins only one can enter into the village. Hampi didn’t attract me at the first glance. I felt it too congested. Specially, in the foggy winter morning, when accommodation was also uncertain, it was feeling too uncomfortable.

Well, we got the rooms. A village home is converted somehow to satisfy the foreigners. Thus the houses are ok type. There are many such houses turned into hotels. Where we stayed, the seat out of that house is converted into restaurant. In the outer compartment, there is cemented bench and table with two chairs. Inner compartment has two mattresses on the floor as seating arrangements and a table is made using empty cold drink crates. Tea, minimum some tiffin and some items of daily use are available here. The most attractive matter is in these chiller items, there are some leaflets of Karnataka Tourism and some old books. After asking on the last day we came to know that the books are for sale, but the leaflets are free of cost. We took one for each. The owner even gave two posters from Karnataka Tourism even we never asked. Unexpected.

To see Hampi, the Bengali folks can use an advantage of the novel “Tungbhadrar Tire” by Sharadindu Bandyopadhyay. The story of the then life could be cross checked once in Hampi.

Roaming in Hampi starts with visiting Virupaksha temple. Several kings had decorated the temple in various times. The last addition was the main Gopura at the front. 

Virupaksha Temple

Whosoever has seen the temples is south India properly, Virupaksha won’t bring much new things to them. Still two things are amazing. First, composite pillars of Vijayanagara. One single pillar is cut from a stone in fashion that it seems it is made by joining several pillars together. The second one is the paintings on the ceiling. Vegetable dye had been used, till date, the colors are prominent. The strange thing is, there is a three dimension effect in the paintings, which makes it more lively.

It is difficult to understand from Virupaksha that Tungbhadra is flowing at very near vicinity. There is a way to go to the river from the temple. After reaching the river, it is required to understand the river and its relation with Hampi before starting seeing Hampi. Mainly on one bank of Tungabhadra is Hampi. As the river took its path, Hampi also spread itself accordingly. Route to see Hampi should be decided standing on the river bank after seeing Virupaksha. One can start through the river, otherwise they can return and start from outside of the temple. Here I will say the way we roamed. 

The temples is Vijayanagara have a sub-shrine other than the main shrine. Those kind of informative talks are not required here I feel.

On the right of Virupaksha is Hemkut hill. We will go here later. The straight road is front of the temple is bazaar street.

Bazar Street

Both sides of the street have roofed corridor structures. Those used to be shops, now only skeletons are remaining. But if doors, windows and other decorations are imagined on those skeletons, it is possible to visualize the shape of a happening market.

Karnataka state government craft shop is now there in one of the shops. Items are nothing special in that shop, but a shop in such an old hall itself is an attractive matter. In another similar room, there is a photo exhibition and yet in another, Hampi police station. We were not lucky enough to see inside of the last one.

After crossing the bazaar street the road on the left hand goes to Vitthala temple along the river bank.

Vittala Temple Pillers

We thought of going toward Matanga hill first. From bazaar itself after climbing up some stairs there is the Nandi shrine. From here right hand road has gone inside the hills.

Similar to the other hills in Hampi, this hill is also a dry one of giant boulders. The only vegetation on the hill is infrequent huge bushes of cacti. The way is sometimes staircases, sometimes mud road or sometimes through the sheet rocks. Some small temples, Mandapas are there on the side of this way. The path ends at the side door of Achyutaraya temple. These stone mandapas might have been used by the commoners, as the front road of Achyutaraya temple is a huge one and known as courtesans’ street. Then it is expected that the ceremonial visits to the temple used to happen through that main road only. The way through the hill must be for commoners only. Considering the fame of Vijayanagara, perhaps, the present day mud way used to be stone laid at that time. But the natural pathways through the sheet rocks might not have been changed.

Achutaraya Temple

Little climbing down is required to reach Achyutaraya temple. Actually on one side of the hill is bazaar street and on the other side it is Achyutaraya temple. To come to the temple through main road, one has to encircle the hill.

Beside the temple there are villages. Lots of banana trees are there over there. From hilltop, looking below is the temple—up to this it is a stony landscape. Next is a little patchwork of greens, after that again stony hills.

One of reasons for liking this temple is mostly people don’t come over here. Perhaps, because it is not easily accessible. One can sit here comfortably. While sitting here it is good to see the map and try to find out the exact present location.

While facing the temple, the peak of Matanga hill is visible atop the right side Gopura. It seems almost as natural Gopura.

As mentioned previously, the courtesans’ street is just outside of the Achyutaraya temple. There are some visible differences between courtesans’ street and the bazaar street. Apparently, both the streets are wide enough and have roofed corridors on both sides. The first difference that catches the eye is the pillars. The pillars in the bazaar street are normal stone pillars, but the pillars in courtesans’ street are having fine works on stones.

The next difference that appears is on the side of this street there is a water tank, quite ornamented. From the street, this tank is behind the corridors of the street. The adjacent corridor of this tank is having even more ornamentation. Point to be mentioned here is, there is no such tank near the bazaar street. Virupaksha temple has its own tank. There is Tungabhadra also, as the bazaar street runs along the bank of the river.

For courtesans’ street, this may be stated that as it is away from the river and there is no tank in Achyutaraya temple, so a tank was required to be here. In this regard, the presence of another tank at the outer end of the street is to be observed. This one is bigger than the other one, but less ornamented. So, one can assume that the water required to serve a mass of people could be fetched from this tank. Then, the other smaller but more beautiful tank might have been required mainly to serve the luxury purposes! This difference shows where decoration plays a vital role and where things are more materialistic. Maybe, the outer bigger tank used to be used by the people with comparatively less money, who could not afford the luxury of the center of the street. So, for peripherals, quantity matters, whereas for center what really matters is quality.

From Achyutaraya temple the way directly goes to Vitthala temple. Well, direct does not mean nearby. Quite a long distance it is. If the craze does not push from within, the walk becomes tiresome.

On this way there is the Varaha temple. After a little walk through this way there is another temple on a hillock of sheet rocks. There we went and got the way to Vitthala temple.

 After crossing this sheet rock, some part of the path is mud path. Here also we saw Mandapa beside the road. This seems the resting place or water vending spot meant for the commoners.

 After this mud road there is again way through sheet rocks. Here we saw worshipping figurines of duo are carved on the rock under our feet itself. But there is no rituals related to these. This way just touched Tungabhadra at one of its sharp turn and went straight. The road ends at a big gateway. After entering through this gateway, there is the king’s balance, Vishnu temple etc. Vitthala temple complex is at the end of this area. To enter inside one has to get ticket from local ASI counter.

  The king’s balance before entering into Vitthal temple appears at the first glance as a very high, but not much wide gateway. Close observation reveals there are three stone loops on the top horizontal slab of the structure, two on both sides and one in middle. Through these loops, the balance plates and needle used to be attached. Using this balance, possibly the kings and noble men used to donate things as per their body weights.

Vitthala temple is one of the signatures of Hampi for today’s tourists. There are reasons for this. Here only, in Vitthala temple Mandapas, there are musical pillars. Different pillar plays a different note.

An alley encircles the sanctum sanctorum. Two doorways with staircases are there on both sides of the yard in front of the sanctum. Through any of these two one can climb down, take a round and climb up back through the other one. Apparently it seems it is an underground chamber, but actually it is not so. The sanctum is built on a high platform. From there if one climbs down, they reach on the ground, but not underground. The specialty of this alley is its darkness. After crossing the first turn itself, it is totally dark. Nothing is visible. Then from guide books we came to know that this area might have been used as treasury. But I can’t reject the doubt of secret killings here.

  With this darkness I was surprised, but till then had no idea that grandpa of this is still there.

  The famous stone chariot of Hampi is in Vitthala temple only. The work on it is awesome. The wheels of the chariot are not fixed with the shaft, but loosely put. The bottoms of wheels are cemented; otherwise possibly it could have been dragged also. There is even a stone staircase to climb on the chariot. Like Tajmahal, miniature of this chariot also can be created for selling. But we didn’t see that anywhere. Maybe, that is not at all feasible. Or maybe, the effort to make Hampi popular forcibly has not started yet.

After coming out of Vitthala temple, there was almost no hope that we will be able to reach our hotel. Because map was showing that we have come a long way from there. Everybody was terribly tired also and the sun was shining too hard. After enquiring we came to know that if we can walk for half an hour, we can reach the bazaar. Otherwise, we have to walk around 1 km up to parking and from there we can get auto which will cost us Rs. 300. We decided to walk.

  From the map and from the view of Gopura of Virupaksha temple it was understood that we had to walk along Tungabhadra. Doubt was, does that way exist at all. Then while walking we saw that we were walking through the ancient path itself. On the stones on river bank, again there are carvings.

While walking through the bank of the Tungabhadra, one can see the boulder hills on the other bank.

A view of boulders

Huge gigantic boulders are the characteristics of Hampi. The hills over here give the feeling that these boulders are balanced together so finely that any minute disturbance could cause them to roll down at any time!

Through the sheet rock way we walked, there also boulders are there. Some such boulders have built a natural obstruction between the river front and Hampi. But this cluster of boulders was not impenetrable. So through the natural gap among them and by increasing that gap with manual efforts, a narrow, stone laid pathway could be built. Where these boulders are meeting, the height of the roof is so low that one has to lower their head while passing. As this pathway is almost covered with stones, it remains comfortably cool even during the hot sun of noon. This one is one of the ancient pathways.

 There are some restaurants over here on the river bank. They take a lot of time to prepare the food. We took a late lunch in one of these and started coming back. We came back to the known area at the bottom of Matanga hill on the bazaar street. Then straight hotel we went.

  We had a huge plan that we will restart roaming after an hour’s nap. But finally we could get up in evening only. Well, we started roaming through the souvenir shops in the village. We did some shopping too. Next is dinner. We just took a chance and entered in a restaurant. We were surprised.

  The front yard of the house has been converted into restaurant. Through the wall on one side there is cemented wide bench. On that itself low height cemented tables. Mattresses are spread on the bench to sit and two chairs are provided on the other side. Strange system. Here also they take a lot of time to serve. But it is delicious to sit over there.

   After a good dinner, there was a good sleep.

Next day after breakfast, the first thing we did was hiring bikes. Three bikes. We crossed Hemakuta hill, Krishna temple, Lakshmi-Narasimha, Badavilinga etc. and took the first stop at underground Shiva temple from where the ruins along the mud road start. There was water accumulated in the sanctum, so we walked through walls.

 The way this temple is, it seems, it was not at all underground. It appeared little down during excavation. The water inside seems rain water. There are algae and guppies in the water, but strangely, no mosquito.

  Along the mud road from this temple most of the ruins of Hampi are situated. Some areas are mentioned as Mohameddans’ quarters. Some ruins over here are of Islamic architecture. Among these, one is called mosque, but it is not facing the west, so actually it was something else. This quarter is mainly on the name of Ahmed Khan.

  On the other side of the road of Mohameddans’ quarters, the quarter is for noble men. House bases were excavated across a vast area here. Later we came to know that stone used to be used for making base of the house, and wood and plaster were used for the upper storey. From the top of a small hillock here, the bases are better visible. The panorama of Vijayanagara is also very beautiful from here. Whatever we saw on the previous day, some of them could be traced out from here.

   Something very nice happened atop this hillock. There was almost no network for my mobile since reaching Hampi. But from this hillock top, full network came suddenly. Actually Hampi is secured at three sides from outside world by hills; that is clearly understood by this incidence.    There are many other ruins throughout the road. We went straightly to Hazara-Rama temple. There are not one thousand Rama idols over here, actually parts of Ramayana are carved on the walls of the temple. On the outer wall there are scenes of soldiers on elephants, horses or on foot, and there were scenes of dancers also.

  Other than human or animal figures, there are plenty of designs carved on the temple walls. From these designs, it is clearly understood that all the designs of Indian ornaments have come from these temple designs only. However modern the design may be, the origin is this, nothing new. It is surprising to realize that the maximum skill was achieved that time itself. After that no betterment could have been done. Actually, technology cannot change the basic feelings of human beings.

There is no Gopura in Hazara-Rama temple. This shows that this temple is older than the Gopura culture. There is a market in front of the temple. Only few are remaining now. Normally market names don’t carry the temple name, same here, the name of this market is Pan Supari Bazaar.

  From Hazara-Rama temple we went toward Zenana enclosure on the left, instead of going to the ruins on the right. Here the second tickets counter of ASI. If it is visited on the same day of visiting Vitthala temple, then with the same ticket one can enter.

 It’s a big, walled enclosure. On the just left after entering are the female guards’ quarters. But recent study suggests that this could be the treasury. A small museum is held inside at present.

Queen’s Palace

  After that the base of queen’s palace is there. But not only base, the entire ground floor almost is there as a big platform, as a symbol of past glorious palace. Beside the palace there is a water tank. Backside of the palace there is a watch tower. It seems it is not allowed for public to enter inside.

  On the right side of the way after crossing queen’s palace is lotus mahal. It’s a two storied, multi domed, plaster structure. Altogether it gives the shape of a lotus flower. There are no walls, so no doors or windows. The roof is based on the ornamented pillars. Here also the base is made of stone whereas the top parts are built by bricks. The plain plaster walls had been painted elaborately.

  After these, there is another wall and beyond that lays an open ground. Elephants stable are situated there. There is doubt about this stable; it might have been the office of the king’s clerks. On the other side of the ground there is a guards’ quarter.

Elephant Stable

The small inner courtyard of this building might have been used for wrestling.

  Farther backside of the establishment, there are small temples, gateways, water tanks etc. Those were maybe for less aristocrat people.

  It was too late by then. So we proceeded to Kamalapuram for lunch. Here also, the outer room of the house has been converted into restaurant. The arrangement is very basic, but food quality is good.

  From Kamalapuram, toward opposite of Hampi, there are Bhima’s gate, Pattabhirama temple etc. We had not gone that way, but taken the way return.

 On this way, there is another ground with some ruins in it. The first ruin is Chandrashekhara temple. Here for the first time we saw that the ceiling and floor are wet. Possibly rain water is being accumulated on the roof and other corners and soaking through the walls. Here black stone pillars are there.

 From here while going farther in the ground, there is the octagonal bath. It has a roofed corridor and a fountain base in the middle of it. Probably this also was for commoners, as there is no palace in near vicinity.

 Near octagonal bath there is a way with low stone walls on both sides. Maybe this way leads to the Bhojanashala. Anyway we didn’t go that way.

 From the vicinity of octagonal bath and Bhojanashala, it feels that these structures were meant for some kind of wayside rest house.

 Somewhere in between the bath and the temple there is Saraswati temple on some rough boulders. The top of the sanctum is broken in such a way that sunlight directly falls on the idol stand. Well there is no idol at present.

 If one sits at the bottom of Chandrashekhara temple or doors of the Saraswati temple, they can see a vast open land in front. The winter breeze was whining. It feels very strange. The good thing is, most of the people don’t come here. One can relish the loneliness. Again, this loneliness is not really loneliness. All the times the ancient habitat surrounds. The ancient people come carrying their times. I never felt the song “Vaishnava jana” such appropriate with any other situation before.

 Again we started in search of ancients. Now we reached at queens’ bath. The structure is of Islamic style. Ornate arched corridors and balconies are surrounding the central square tank. But the entire thing is somehow not matching with Vijayanagara sensation. It was clear that by then outsiders started getting in the depth of the dynasty. The pure Vijayanagara was struggling for its identity.

 The last ruins on the mud road are the royal enclosure. This walled enclosure is the biggest enclosure among Hampi ruins. After entering, the first thing that attracts is Mahanavami Dibba, a huge, high stone platform. The king’s family used to enjoy the festival processions on the front road from here. Strange enough, that road is still there. Then it might be of stone, now it is mud road, but it exists.

 Entire royal enclosure is now visible from Mahanavami Dibba. There are two staircases to climb up the platform. One is steep and open. The other one is covered with arches and ornate. This difference possibly was meant to show the level aristocracy between the other noble men and the king’s family.

 Scenes of processions, hunting, dance etc. are carved on the walls of the platform.

 At a little distance from the platform is the overhead water channel. Water used to be flown through this channel from a lake at a distance of 3 km to fill the tanks of the royal enclosure.

 The first outlet of this channel is connected to the stepped tank. Made of black stone, this tank has a typical design in its own. The location of this tank does not suggest it used to be used for bathing; chance is there that this used to be used for the water sports of the kings.

 There are many house bases in the royal enclosure. By seeing the sewage and path system of some areas, it seems those used to be markets. Others are palaces, offices etc.

 Among all these, there is an underground chamber. The roof is broken now, so one can see the chamber from top. There is a staircase to climb down. It is clear that there could not be any natural light inside the chamber at any time of the day. But this is not strange enough. There are two doors on both sides of this chamber. They are connected by a narrow alley. One can enter into the alley through one door and come out through the other after encircling the chamber. The entire structure is made of dark green chlorite stone. After entering the alley only it is understood what darkness means. Daylight is there outside, but inside it is solid black. There is almost no information on this chamber. Maybe it was treasury. But nobody can guarantee that this chamber was not being used for trapping and killing enemies of any kind.

 Outside of royal enclosure, two big stone doors are kept. This is too much paranormal.

 Now is the time to return. Lakshmi-Narasimha and Badavilinga came on the way return. Both are giant monoliths. The Narasimha is no more intact. Still whatever is remaining is enough for awe-inspiring. The base of the Badavilinga is submerged in water permanently.

Badavilinga has a story associated to it. Once upon a time, an old village woman, Badavi, had got a pebble Shivalinga on the way to her village home. She decided to take it home for worship. She tied the pebble in her cloth for carrying.

 On the way, at the same spot of today’s temple, the pebble fell down without the knowledge of Badavi. Then on, the pebble started growing at its place and took the size and shape of today’s monolith. The monolith got its name from the name of the woman Badavi.

 In a place like Hampi, facts, stories and myths are inseparable from each other. Depending on the circumstances and audience, each telling gets its characteristics.

The temple of Badavilinga is a simple one. This is second biggest Shivalinga in south India. Biggest one is the Tanjavur Brihadeshwara. Incidentally, both I have visited.

 Well, the story of Badavilinga has two sides. First one is spiritual. God Shiva grew in size, grew from a pebble of size that could be tied in the corner of an old woman’s cloth to a monolith of almost 3 m height, still it did not overtake Tanjore Brihadeshwara. So our god himself shows us the greatness of being happy with smaller things and not being the best one.

 The other side of this story is political. The sculptor of this monolith somehow didn’t get the kingly patron. Maybe, his work had never been accepted, or perhaps, he was afraid to disclose his work. Considering the Muslim invasion, sculpting a Hindu god might have become risky.

 There may be another reason other than all these. If the dates and sculptor histories of nearby Lakshmi-Narasimha monolith can be compared with that of Badavilinga, it may come out that, actually the sculptor(s) practiced with Badavilinga before starting the far more complex Lakshmi-Narasimha. Or, same matter in a little different way, before starting the complex work as Lakshmi-Narasimha, the sculptor wished to please his guardian deity, Shiva. Both the statues are situated at the entry point of a village. In decreasing day-light, they are too beautiful and once again, paranormal.

 Once again we passed through the way in front of Krishna temple now in this evening. Now we cannot roam in the ruins any more. So we took a ride on the way toward Hospet. We went up to just before the congestion of the town starts and then came back. In midway, when a car coming from Hampi asked us the way to Hospet, and we, the experienced people of two days, told them the way, it was feeling like the olden days are becoming alive once again. New people are asking the ways from them who had already travelled in the same ways.

 On the previous day morning we came through this way. Then it was different. Now, after the dark of night has descended, the same road looks different.

 One strange matter, this much dark it was, still I could not see any fire flies.

 The plan to ride bikes on this road was really a good one. It was feeling amazing while driving.

 After returning to hotel, we sat for some time and gossiped. Then again we were in the village market, again some shopping, and much more window shopping, and finally reaching to the same restaurant and same table as previous day for dinner. Then back to hotel and gossip and discussion on strange matters in bed after switching off the lights, and then finally a warm sleep.

We had to rush in the morning as that was our day of leaving Hampi by noon time. We had to vacate the room in the morning itself. Before leaving Hampi we had to see Hemakuta hill, till then that remained untouched.

 In the back room of the restaurant of the same hotel we left our baggage and started the roaming of the day. Hemakuta is just beside Virupaksha temple. Many small mandapas and temples are there. Possibly most of these are jain structures. In the novel ‘Tungabhadrar tire’ this hill is mentioned. It was said there that in that dynasty time, fire used to be lit atop Hemakuta, to show the direction of Vijayanagara to the travelers in night.

 This hill is also a hill of boulders and sheet rocks. Here one can find the Sasivekalu and Kadalekalu Ganesha images. The meanings of the names of these Ganeshas are based on their shapes. Sasivekalu means mustard seed and Kadalekalu means Bengal gram. Their shrines are simple. Both the images are monoliths. Kadalekalu Ganesh image has suffered some breakage in the front part.

 After climbing down from Hemakuta and facing Hospet, on left side road there is Krishna temple, the last destination of our Hampi tour.

 Crossing a random ancient market area below Hemakuta we reached at Krishna temple. The deity here used to be Bala Krishna. The temple is not gigantically big, but very well decorated. One can keep on sitting on the mandapas, or doors, or staircases. It feels good.

 It is said that this temple was built in memory of Kalinga war. Well, we could not know the result of that war. Battle scene has been made on the main gateway by plaster work. Elephants, horses and many soldiers are all shown in a congested fashion. Their faces, uniform everything is down with good details. They might be Vijayanagara soldiers, or maybe Kalinga soldiers. They are all same crowd when they are commoners.

 As usual there is a market in front of the temple. But this market has got the name as of the temple name itself—Shri Krishna bazaar. Almost nothing is remaining here also.

The common people in Hampi are good. The souvenirs available here for tourists are much costly. But the items of daily use are affordable. People are very much hospitable. It feels that they are all still carrying the olden days’ traditions. The first drawn back feeling that came just after arriving here changed into attraction for this place.

The market in Hampi is very interesting. Well, here I am mentioning the market of souvenir shops and restaurants. Souvenirs are mostly handicraft items. Every shop is actually ground floor or facing room of a residence of the village, mostly a small room with an opening through a veranda. So, the market area is not confined in one place, it is spread across the village. Most of the items are very costly as they are mainly meant for the foreign tourists. But some scope of bargaining is always there. It’s a pleasure to roam through these shops, both if you purchase or you don’t.

Restaurants are also part of residential houses only. Some of them are having lodging facility in the house. All serve food at a very leisurely pace, so don’t get into one of these with totally empty stomach. You can always take some biscuits before getting in for main food and make yourself able to enjoy the ambience they provide to you.

We visited Hampi at the peak of tourist season. The crowd mainly goes to Virupaksha, Vitthala, Hemakuta, Krishna, Zenana enclosure etc. The next crowd pullers are royal enclosure, queen’s bath etc. Other small places, that are scattered all around are very rarely visited by tourists. But there only lies the real Vijayanagara. Foreigners flock this areas somehow more than Indians.

  Hampi must have to be revisited.

New Delhi

Come on, as we decided to name our personal travel experience sharing website “induscarte” meaning the map of India, let’s start the talk with Delhi – being New Delhi the national capital.

Like any other place that we’ll eventually talk on in this site, this piece on Delhi also has very personal ground. Hence we’re no way trying to give you exclusive information, but sharing our feelings.

Delhi – there are seven cities of Delhi historically. Meaning seven times Delhi has been destroyed and re-established by another new ruler. Probably a maximum number when compared to any other Indian city.

Now, after each political overhauling, something remained from the previous era. Seven times. And today’s Delhi has become the open museum of history and antiquity.

Here are some places, known to many at various degrees, we are feeling to talk about.

Agrasen ki Bavli

Agrasen ki Bawli

This is tucked somewhere in Connaught Place. At present posh Delhi concretes are surrounding it. You may even find it difficult to make an auto driver understand where really you want to go. We guided our auto using Google map as we went before the release of the Hindi movie PK. Now you can refer PK to auto driver to reach this hideout.

A bavli or baoli is a step well. A long flight of stairs goes deep under the ground level till the reach of water. A multi storied construction with arched corridors on each floor surrounds the well. Each floor can be accessed from various passages. Water level may go up and down making different floors closer to water. Entire construction is guarded with high walls.

Bavlis were mainly meant for women folks for their water activities. When water comes up to some upper level, it’s even possible to swim in the well.

Few guide books and sites talked about Agrasen ki bavli. Hence getting a comfortable review was quite difficult. What attracted us was statements in some article that Agrasen being the first man in Agrawal clan. We just gave it a chance. And it became superb.

After you enter the premises, protected by ASI, but no entry fees, you are suddenly cut off from the chaotic noise of the city. You may even feel the air has less pollution here. You can roam through the presently accessible corridors, or go up and down the steps. There is no water at the bottom of the well now. The bottom chamber has some wet sandy soil and a lot of bats overhead.

Otherwise, the best, you simply sit on the steps and contemplate. It’s serene. It’s cool.

Some associate supernatural activities with this place, we never felt any.

Humayun’s Tomb

Everybody knows about this monument. Everybody goes there. But we got stuck by it. Which criteria of this place made us spellbound is not clear even to us, but when we visited we felt to be in completely in our own space.

Some say Humayun’s tomb is prequel of Taj Mahal. We never felt in that way. Taj Mahal is only glamour – and a lot of it. Whereas Humayun’s tomb is a place to sit quietly, look within one’s self and contemplate. Far more serene, far more close to heart. The only other place come to mind that offers similar feeling is Sikandara – Akbar’s Tomb.

Matter to remember here is Humayun’s tomb was built by Akbar, who had a great sense of architecture – recall Fatehpur Sikri if you’ve been (else put it in your bucket list). So this mausoleum depicts peace – whereas Fatehpur Sikri depicts grandeur.

Red sand stone is used here. The material gives a terracotta look which is soothing to eyes amidst a lush green garden that surrounds the tomb. If you go there during monsoon on a drizzling day, the freshness of the stone is overpowering.

I heard that in Humayun’s tomb there lies the unmarked grave of Dara Shikoh. Unmarked as it is, so none can ever find it, but it’s beautiful to think yes it is there, somewhere in the numerous unmarked graves inside the complex.

A typical Persian garden holds the tomb in the center – typicality for many other Mughal mausoleums.

Qutub Minar Complex

There will be nobody who visited Delhi and didn’t head for Qutub Minar. Let’s talk on some open-in-plain-sight but overlooked things about this internationally famed site.

Qutub minar looks taller than its actual height. Why? How? – The angle of ascent is a big one. Means, the tower does not tapper very gradually – instead it tapper with a higher rate. Thus when you see it from its base, it looks taller. Factually Taj Mahal is taller than Qutub minar, but never looks so.

Then there is the incomplete Alai Minar. Alauddin Khilji started making it but could never complete in his life time and there was nobody to really put mind to proceed with this project after the former ruler. Alauddin wanted to go for a tower double the height of Qutub. So the base of the Alai minar is far bigger than that of Qutub. It had been constructed till a few floors also. But if you observe it closely, the tower look little inclined already. This means Alai minar could never reach its completion and would have toppled long before finishing even though the project was carried out farther.

And finally there is that iron pillar which never rusts.

Here we’ll tell you, please don’t miss the mosque in the complex. And don’t miss its stone jali work on the walls. A mehendi designer will be happy if they can recreate the patterns of jalis on someone’s palm.

Qutub complex has been a subject of continuous research among various educational fields. It’s grand. It’s beautiful. It’s curiosity provoking.

Agra

Everybody goes for the Taj – Taj Mahal. It’s fine. It gives India the pride to hold one of the wonders of the world. But let’s talk something else here. Something that is not so glamorous but intricately serene and thought provoking.

Sikandara

Sikandara is a locality in Agra, bit away from city’s heart. But Sikandara is synonymous with Akbar’s Tomb. So when a local mentions the locality as Sikandara, they bring a definite respect in their talk.

Akbar’s tomb – designed by Akbar, started by Akbar – but finished by Jahangir. Now you can see some mismatches in the entire complex. As if something could have been placed batter somewhere else. The show of Akbar’s sense in architectural beauty and Jahangir’s not-up-to-the-mark wit on this matter.

Still, Sikandara provides peace of mind. It’s as usual set in the center of the Persian garden. A water canal leads you from entrance till the tomb complex. The entrance gate itself is a building. A similar gate provides the entrance to the actual tomb.

We felt like we can spend our life leaning on any wall here. Such a serene place. A lot of Agra tourists don’t find time to pay a visit here. That’s fortunate if you have any idea to go. It’s a lone place away from the city heat holding its owner in its womb. It has so much within itself that there is no need for any advertisement.

The startling beauty is the grave of Akbar. It has no decoration of whatsoever kind. A simple cool marble grave below the high domed ceilings. The final resting place of a mighty emperor of a great empire.

We can’t say whether Akbar himself wanted his grave to be such simple or Jahangir didn’t want to put mind into it, but the simplicity adds to the place’s beauty.

Again, the signature of Akbar style, his mausoleum is of red sand stone. It’s cool. His inclination towards things Indian made him creating constructions matching with India’s soothing natural landscape.

Agra Fort

Everybody goes here. We just comment here that there is a thumb rule to visit Agra fort. Anything you see here in red sand stone is built by Akbar. And anything you see here in marble is built by Shahjahan. There might be some other objects also which show “exception proves the rule”.

Go and see the room where Shahjahan locked himself up after the death of Mumtaj Mahal. People said when he came out after several days he was looking older and strangely – shorter.

This finally became the same room where he was house arrested by Aurangzeb till death. And this is the room from where he could see the Taj.

There are many sites to see inside the fort. Any travel guide will provide details on them. Make a plan to visit this place to feel the grandeur yourself.

Fatehpur Sikri

Akbar’s trial to set up the capital. But it did not work due to water crises. Buland Darwaza stands as the most prominent structure here. There are lot others in the complex.

Where in Fatehpur Sikri, it’s worth to have a look of the Hiran Minar. Sometimes it may not be allowed by the authorities to go neat the tower, but it is visible from other structures.

The specialty of this tower is its purpose. Akbar’s favorite battle elephant Hiran lies buried under the tower.

Hiran died a heroic death in battle for Akbar. It was pierced all over its body with arrows from enemy army. Akbar was riding it. Hiran was fatally injured, but denied to fall in the battle field. Instead it ran and reached the safe area of Fatehpur Sikri with the rider Akbar. Hiran died just when Akbar reached his safety.

Akbar’s tribute to Hiran is Hiran minar. If you see closely, the tower has protruding sticks all over its periphery. This depicts the arrow stuck Hiran at its last moments.

Fatehpur Sikri is about 30 km away from Agra towards Rajasthan. Interestingly Bharatpur is just another 30 km from Fatehpur Sikri.