Kanha National Park

It was just more than a year that we took Pench trip. Tepu was 1 year 3 months then. Now she is 2 and half years old. In Pench, she was a moving doll, now in Kanha, she has got her own small world of wonders.

We took our journey to Kanha from my native in West Bengal. Boarded a train from Santragachhi to Gondia. It’s almost a 16 hours journey. We boarded in evening sometimes around 7 pm or so and arrived at Gondia before noon.

Gondia is the most convenient railhead for Kahna. Otherwise, Nagpur, Jabbalpur, Raipur all are having comfortable rail and flight options. But in those cases, road travel becomes longer.

It takes around 3 and half hours from Gondia to Khatia, the gateway of Kanha where we chose to stay. It’s wise to finish major food, say lunch, in Gondia town itself, as just after crossing Gondia, the forest starts and though a few markets come along the way, they won’t serve full course meals. But their own local snacks are all awesome. These markets are small, shops are smaller. And they prepare each item in small quantities, so when you order, you may have to adjust with the current options available, which are again not a lot.

After Gondia, the forest road gives the feeling of buffer zone. Dense deciduous forest runs along with you. Sometimes, there come some clearings, you see stretches of agriculture, the corps of the dry plateaus. Following these comes a small village, with a common deep well, the precious source of water. There may be a non descript school around. Then you go along and get into the forestry road for some more time. This repetition goes on and on for around 2 hours or so.

Then we find our Innova is off roading. It goes through dry waterways, rolls over bumpy tree routes and practically goes through some courtyards in the village houses. We wonder if we are lost. But the driver is a local and he assures, this is the road. Oh, wow. Incredible India. I remember the river crossing on the way to Bandapani in North Bengal. If there is a rain in the mountains of Bhutan, the dry riverbed will be gushing and all traffic has to wait till water goes away. I wonder what really happens to this road during rains, when this same ‘road’ carries the waters.

This off road finally brings us onto the highway and we reach Khatia. This is Suman of Pench’s home. He made another cottage – The Wild Camp – stay here in his family land. This is around 1 km away from Khatia gate of Kanha Tiger Reserve. We are practically staying in the buffer zone.

Rooms are more than basic here and comfortable enough. The décor gives the feel of nature stay. The use of bamboo and logs for benches, tables, rack etc. is catchy. There is a large brass wash basin in bathroom. Everything has a rustic feel and this adds to the charm of the stay.

There are some restaurants around. But we chose to eat from the kitchen serving the wild camp. You have to ask what will be available and order beforehand as they are preparing food as per the guests’ requirements only. Food is delicious and comfortable. I didn’t have to worry for my 2.5 year old daughter’s food there.

We opted to try local snacks on the way and lunch after reaching the cottage. So our lunch was a bit late. The chillness in February was comfortable and after lunch we roamed around for some time soaking in the afternoon sun and retired for afternoon nap. It was particularly required for Tepu after this long journey.

In evening, we walked till Khatia gate. There are some food stalls, restaurants and souvenir shops on the way. It’s good to spend some time around these and try evening snacks.

After dark, there is not much things to do in this area. Even shops near Khatia gate also close quite early. Then it’s best to spend some time in the stay properties either in open air, or inside room. Both are equally pleasant given their own charm.

Next morning, we went for a walking tour in the buffer zone with Suman. I kept Tepu with maa and baba. It would have been difficult hike for them. It took us around 3 hours to complete a circuit through several forest settlements, fields, teak forest and trails. If opted, camping for a stargazing night is also possible in this area.

We could enter some tribal houses and witness their lifestyle. Typical rooted to nature dwelling. We saw the secretion of frankincense when a cut made on its tree bark. Villagers told previous night a bear scratched their house wall and we saw the pug marks. There was a pack of wild dogs roaming in the area and we were told not to roam alone even during daylight. Fortunately we didn’t encounter them, as wild dogs are dangerous to the core when it comes to attack in packs and tear the prey to mere shreds.

This afternoon we took our first safari. It starts around 3 pm and goes till 6 pm. All permits etc were already done by Suman submitting our identity proofs and other documents. A jeep picked us from the cottage around 2.30 pm or so. A guide accompanied us from Khatia gate.

We didn’t see tiger. But there are lots and lots of animals one can spot in any given safari in Kanha. There are deer, jakle, avians, reptiles, sambar – and an plethora altogether. But always, when in a safari, do go for the forest, not for the tick mark sightings, but better to say for the forest bathing. Let yourself get immersed in the atmosphere. Open up all your senses and indulge into the abundance.

The afternoon safari in winter means starting in pleasant warmth of afternoon sun and slowly allowing the evening to engulf the surrounding and finally your self. It means witnessing the wild preparing for its continuation towards the end of another day. It’s always magical and overpowering to one’s being. When we returned to the cottage in dark, we were all welcome with the peace of the night. The forest welcomed us for a good night’s rest after a long and active day.

We took snacks and dinner and retired early to bed to be ready for coming day’s morning safari that starts at 6 am meaning to start from cottage at 5.30 am meaning to my getting up by 4.30 am to make the kid ready crushing her final phase of slumber – anyone handling a kid will understand the challenge, that too when outside temperature will still be somewhere around 5 deg C.

Well, we’re all up and ready for the morning safari. Thanks to our kitchen, they packed delicious breakfast for us that we’ll take inside the forest.

Dawn broke when we’re still waiting at Khatia gate as the park opens after a bit while of dawn. This day we followed a tiger, but finally could not see. Other animals were enough for us. And now in morning, birding is the main attraction. Just keep on looking around and you are rewarded. You practically don’t have to strain your eyes. And yes, when you see these many birds, be assure, you are not going to spot tiger. So strike a balance and accept your chances.

A clearing inside the depth of the forest is designated for breakfast for all the vehicles on that track. The clearing is circled with trees and vehicles park themselves on the inner periphery. Jeep’s bonnet is the serving table and you are free to go anywhere to satisfy your hunger, which is really big by now, after all this terrain riding. You are cold also due to hunger and morning temperatures. So this breakfast will bring back your body heat and revive you to continue further. Yes, there will be tea with breakfast, flasked from cottage.

Let me tell you, this clearing in Kanha didn’t allow the sun to creep through the dense foliage of the guarding trees, making the area particularly chilly. We actually got shivering here, what didn’t happen in the running open jeep also. The canopy here kept the night dew in. Till the sun is really high, the dew won’t evaporate and will keep the ground damp and the tourists shivering in damp cold. The beauty of this arena is its silence. It’s so deeply silent here that after all the people have stopped there for food break and stretching, the silence of the forest is still overpowering. Stil the chirping of the birds was more audible than our own combined sounds. This is what makes a forest different. It almost doesn’t mind your tiny presence, though you know, it values the existence of every single being, including you.

Both the safaris we have taken through Khatia gate. If I am not very mistaken, one trail was Khatia trail, another Kalsi trail. But it could be something else also. I got confused with the options and availability there.

So, as we didn’t see tiger, should we be disappointed! No. Never. When on a safari on an open jeep feel the change of breeze with time and zone, feel the itch of red soil on your eyelash, feel the thirst, feel the cold, hunger. Find out that you have forgot all your discomforts and sense of time and got lost into the atmosphere. Get to see the curious doe, the abandoned antlers, the nonchalant eagle, the diving kingfisher, the always alert jakle, the sudden sambar, the strange speed of barrel like wild boar, the pug marks, the claw marks on trees to define ruling area. Find the mist – lifting or the fog – descending. When on safari, find the forest itself.

We came sometimes before lunch. After lunch, we went to sunset point. No, Gulzar’s album was not shot here. It’s a small hillock, from where Kanha plains are thoroughly visible and so is the sunset. Climb is easy enough. You can simply go and sit, instead of a lot of selfie hunting. It’s a tranquil place. Find a crack in a rock and set yourself for the serenity.

While coming, we shopped a bit from a nearby small market. Souvenir and t-shirts and things like that, most of which are not local produce. Tepu liked a plush tiger and kept on telling she just wanted to see its size. Poor thing. I kept mum till she asks for it and she never did. Later after coming back to cottage baba told better to go for it and I took her to the shop (now on a scooty) and got it for her. Luminous happiness covered her whole tiny being – so beautiful she was then.

This was return day. We started after lunch. Now all mentally ready for that stretch of mud road. But surprisingly, the same driver went all through good roads. We were like, wow, how!!! The he told, he brought us through that road to give us a bit of adventurous feeling, there is no need to take that path now, as we were returning. Wow…what a consideration. Moreover, he told, this present road what he took now will take us through Mocha village where weekly market is happening on that day. We were all super happy, as such markets are always charming to the core. Here you can see the absolute local gathering and lifestyles.

We got down at the market and roamed a bit.  Possibly wedding season was going on. In a shop a jeweler sat with stone heave silver ornaments. I always longed for those. But by seeing them, I immediately stepped back, could not gather the courage to purchase. But again, after leaving the place, I still long for them. Our real purchase from Kanha was wild honey and sambrani resin.

Well, done with Kanha for a while now. We headed back from Gondia to same Santragachhi.